紡織纖維的分類(Textile Fiber Classification)

1、第一章 紡織纖維的分類（Textile Fiber Classification） 紡織纖維(textile fiber) 紡織纖維紡織纖維 纖維長度達到數(shù)十毫米以上，具有一定的強度、 一定的可撓曲性和相互糾纏抱合性能和其他服用性能 而可以生產(chǎn)紡織制品（如紗線、繩帶、機織物、針織 物）的，叫紡織纖維紡織纖維。 纖維可紡紗的條件： 1 必須具有一定的細度,一定的長度,一定的長細比例 及均勻度; 2 必須具有一定的強力,變形能力,彈性,耐磨性,剛?cè)?性,抱合性和摩擦力;如金屬絲，藕絲 3 應(yīng)具有一定的吸濕性、導(dǎo)電性和熱學(xué)性質(zhì)；如金 屬絲 4 應(yīng)具有一定的化學(xué)穩(wěn)定性和良好的染色性能； 特種纖維用紡織

2、纖維還有特別的要求，如輪胎用 簾子線，要耐疲勞；帳篷布要耐日曬；宇航服要耐高 溫；降落傘要強力高。 紡織纖維的分類 天然纖維 1 天然纖維素纖維（natural cellulose fiber） 種子纖維（seed hairs） 韌皮纖維( bast fibers) 葉子纖維(leaf fibers) 果殼纖維(nut husk fibers) Since primitive times, human Since primitive times, human beings began to use natural fiber beings began to use natural fiber

3、clothing. Initially, humans rely on clothing. Initially, humans rely on animal skins and fur of body, and animal skins and fur of body, and later learned to weave crude textiles. later learned to weave crude textiles. They plant the vines of flexible fibers They plant the vines of flexible fibers wo

4、ven into the original rough cloth.woven into the original rough cloth. It records the history of Chinese science It records the history of Chinese science and technology, China has emerged in the 4000-and technology, China has emerged in the 4000- 5000 years ago, silk and linen fabrics, 3000 5000 ye

5、ars ago, silk and linen fabrics, 3000 years ago felt, cotton fabric 2000 years ago. years ago felt, cotton fabric 2000 years ago. She has mastered all the operating She has mastered all the operating processes such as tripping processes such as tripping cottonseedcottonseed , ,elastic cotton, volume

6、 elastic cotton, volume sliversliver ,spinning cotton yarn, woven cotton,spinning cotton yarn, woven cotton. Huang Daopo, Song to the Yuan Dynasty famous Huang Daopo, Song to the Yuan Dynasty famous textile expert , textile expert , Cotton fibers are the seeds of plant fiber , which is the most impo

7、rtant textile fiber that human has used for a long history. 棉纖維屬于植物纖維中的種子纖維，是人 類使用歷史較長的重要紡織纖維。 China, India, Egypt, Peru, Brazil, the United States are the worlds major cotton producing area. Yellow River, Yangtze River, south, northwest, northeast are five major cotton-producing regions of China. 中

8、國、印度、埃及、秘魯、巴西、美國等為世界主要 棉纖維產(chǎn)地。 黃河流域、長江流域、華南、西北、東北為我國五 大產(chǎn)棉區(qū)。 Fiber Properties: Cotton fibers are composed of an outer(skin) and a primary wall , a secondary wall ,and a century core ,or lumen . 棉纖維為多層狀帶中腔結(jié)構(gòu)。 Immature fibers exhibit thin wall structures and a large lumen ,whereas mature fibers have thi

9、ck walls and a small lumen that may not be continuous ,because the wall close the lumen in some sections. 未成熟纖維顯示薄壁結(jié)構(gòu)和一個大的中腔， 相反，成熟纖維則有厚的細胞壁和一個小 的中腔，且沒有連續(xù)，因為細胞壁在某一 部分和中腔接近。 Cotton fibers are thin long and soft, with a high moisture regain . 棉纖維細長柔軟，吸濕性好。 Cotton fiber is a moisture and strong porous

10、material. The internal molecular arrangement is not regular, with a large number of hydrophilic molecular structure inside. 綿纖維是多孔性物質(zhì)，內(nèi)部分子排列很不規(guī)則，且分 子中含有大量的親水結(jié)構(gòu)。 因此，在正常的情況下，纖維可向周圍的大氣中 吸收水分，其含水率為8-10%。當人們穿棉織物時，會 感到柔軟而不僵硬 - As the warm cotton fiber is a poor conductor of heat and electricity, thermal c

11、onductivity is very low, because of its porous nature of cotton fibers, the advantages of high flexibility, can accumulate large amounts of air between the fibers, the air is hot and electric the bad conductor, so cotton fiber products have good moisture retention, use cotton products make people fe

12、el warm. 保暖性-由于棉纖維是熱和電的不良導(dǎo)體，熱傳導(dǎo)系數(shù)極低， 又因棉纖維本身具有多孔性，彈性高優(yōu)點，纖維之間能積存大 量空氣，空氣又是熱和電的不良導(dǎo)體，所以，純棉纖維制品具 有良好的保濕性，使用純棉制品使人感覺到溫暖。 棉纖維缺點 Easy to fold - less flexible cotton fiber. 易皺-棉纖維彈性較差。 Large shrinkage - there is a strong absorbent cotton fiber, when it absorbs moisture so that after the expansion of cotton

13、fiber, cotton yarn caused by reduced deformation 縮水率大-棉纖維有很強的吸水性，當其吸收水份后令 棉纖維膨脹，引致棉紗縮短變形。 - Mildew in damp conditions, such as the case of bacteria or fungi, cotton fibers will be broken down into nutrients - they like glucose, so that the fabric moldy 霉變-在潮濕的狀態(tài)下，如遇細菌或真菌，棉纖 維會分解成它們喜歡的營養(yǎng)物質(zhì)-葡萄糖，使面料 發(fā)霉

14、變質(zhì)。 Despite the poor - Moisture absorption and strong, but not dry 排濕性差-盡管吸濕力強，但不易干燥。 Cotton fiber, such as prolonged exposure to daylight, strong reduction will be hard-brittle fibers, such as the case of oxidant, with oxidizing bleach or dye, but also will decrease fiber strength, fiber brittle ha

15、ir hard. 棉纖維如長時間與日光接觸，強力降低，纖維會硬發(fā) 脆，如遇氧化劑、漂白粉或具有氧化性的染料，也會使纖 維強力下降，纖維發(fā)脆發(fā)硬。 Colored cotton With the development of agricultural technology, the natural color of cotton fiber has emerged. 韌皮纖維（bast fibers） The Pharaoh of Egypt s mummies are wrapped in linen bandages. The bast fiber consist of flax, rami

16、e, jute, hemp. Flax is a bast fiber-a woody（木質(zhì) 的） fiber obtained from the phloem （韌皮部 ）of plants. It derives from the stalk（莖） or stem of Linum suitatssimum （亞麻屬植物）（亞麻屬植物）. The use of linen in Egypt between 3000and 2500B.C. has been verified. Physical Properties Flax fiber is not so fine as cotton,

17、is longer than cotton. The natural color of flax varies from light ivory to gray. While, the color of cotton fibers vary from almost pure white to a dirty gray. The nature of flax Flax is a strong fiber. Fabrics of flax are durable and easy to maintain because of the fiber strength. When wet, the fi

18、ber is about 20 percent stronger than when dry. The amount of elongation that flax will undergo before breaking is very small. Linen fabrics are prone to crease and wrinkle badly. They are somewhat stiff and posses little resiliency. It is these characteristics, it can be made into sacks and hemp ro

19、pe, etc. Flax has low pliability or flexibility, which may result in increased serviceability. Flax has a standard moisture regain of about 12 percent. The saturation regain is comparable to that other cellulosic fibers(纖維素纖維). Flax has outstanding wicking properties（芯 吸性）, which makes it possible t

20、o make dress and socks. Flax fibers do not shrink or stretch to any marked degree. However, as in the case of cotton, yarns and fabrics are subject to some relaxation shrinkage. Ironing linen fabrics while damp will help stretch them back to their original size. The strength of flax fibers makes it

21、possible to manufacture a wide variety of yarns, from very fine to very heavy, which can be used to make a wide variety of fabrics, from sheer and loose to heavy and compact. There is a gradual loss of strength when linen fabrics are exposed to sunlight ,but this is not serious. consequently, flax m

22、akes a good choice for curtain . Dry linen has excellent resistance to mildew（霉 菌）, but if the fabric is moist or stored in a humid atmosphere, mildew will grow rapidly and damage the fiber, so linen fabric should be placed in a dry environment. The nature resistance of flax to chemicals, including

23、detergents, bleaches, other laundry aids, and dry-cleaning solvents, provides a fabric that is easily maintained. Further, these properties, plus resistance to sunlight, inherent fiber strength, and resistance to aging, result in fabrics with a long life. In addition to the flax plant there are a lo

24、t of hemp plant is produced in life and industry, for example in Apocynum. Its leaves can be used to make tea, have lower blood pressure , reducing blood lipid and preventing cold effects. Its bark（樹皮） is a natural material, can use the apocynum fiber finishing textile and clothing has good air perm

25、eability（透氣性）, hygroscopicity（吸濕性） strong, soft, antibacterial, the winter heat and summer cold characteristics .Therefore apocynum fiber can advanced material, fishing line, leather line, raincoats and senior paper. Apocynum（羅布麻屬） 天然蛋白質(zhì)纖維(natural protein fiber) 毛纖維wool fiber 羊毛wool 兔毛rabbit hair 狗絨

26、boss 一條狗可抓克絨，與羊相當，具有肉 用價值，天津工大開發(fā) 發(fā)纖維hair fiber 羊絨cashmere(開司米) 仿羊絨cash merelike 羊駝Alpaca(阿爾巴卡)，產(chǎn)于秘魯 馬海毛Mohair 駱駝毛 牦牛毛 以上纖維是最貼近皮膚的一層細薄絨毛,因其多生長在高 寒地帶,故保暖性極佳,其產(chǎn)量低,所以價格昂貴,又稱“軟黃 金”或“纖維鉆石”。 絲纖維silk 腺體分泌物（section） 家蠶絲 cultivated silk 柞蠶絲 wild silk 3礦物纖維（mineral fiber） 從纖維狀結(jié)構(gòu)的礦石巖石中獲得的纖維 石棉askestes (二)化學(xué)纖維(m

27、an-made fiber） ) 1再生纖維（regenerated fiber） 采用天然聚合物為原料，經(jīng)過化學(xué)方法制成的與 原聚 合物在化學(xué)組成上基本相同的化學(xué)纖維，稱再生纖維。 再生纖維素纖維 粘膠纖維 viscose/rayon 天絲 tencel/LYOCELL/莫代爾纖維 銅氨纖維 cuprammonium fiber 再生蛋白質(zhì)纖維 大豆纖維 奶酪纖維 甲殼素纖維 海藻酸鈉纖維 2 合成纖維 (synthetic fiber) 由天然小分子化合物經(jīng)人工合成有機聚合物后，再溶解或熔 融成液體后抽拔成纖維。 滌綸 polyester 錦綸 polyamide fiber/nylon

28、腈綸 acrylic fiber 無機纖維（inorganic fiber）,如 玻璃纖維(glass fiber) 新型纖維 Thurmax 藕形纖維藕形纖維：彈性極佳，又稱中空纖維， 如七孔被，九孔被 Coolmax 涼爽纖維涼爽纖維：纖維中有槽子，毛細血管 現(xiàn)象，導(dǎo)汗性極強。 ES纖維纖維： 丙綸和滌綸兩者，里面是滌綸，熔點 較高（160 ），外面是丙綸，熔點較低（110 ）。制成 無紡布。放在稍高于110 的溫度上烤，丙綸化掉成網(wǎng)狀， 這種纖維具有彈性。 芳綸芳綸 ：防彈衣 防輻射 防切割 （三）三） 天然纖維和化學(xué)纖維的異同 For centuries humankind For c

29、enturies humankind has relied upon various plants has relied upon various plants and animals to provide the and animals to provide the raw materials for fabrics and raw materials for fabrics and clothing. clothing. However, in the last However, in the last century scientists have turned century scie

30、ntists have turned to chemistry and technology to chemistry and technology to create and enhance many to create and enhance many of the fabrics we now take for of the fabrics we now take for granted.granted. In1955,manufacturers In1955,manufacturers began to produce a began to produce a new type of

31、rayonnew type of rayon high-wet-modulus high-wet-modulus (HWM) rayon(HWM) rayon which was somewhat which was somewhat stronger and which stronger and which could be used could be used successfully in sheets, successfully in sheets, towels, and apparel.towels, and apparel. Today rayon is one of the m

32、ost widely used fabrics in Today rayon is one of the most widely used fabrics in our society. It is made in countries around the world. It our society. It is made in countries around the world. It can be blended with natural or man-made fabrics, treated can be blended with natural or man-made fabric

33、s, treated with enhancements, and even engineered to perform a with enhancements, and even engineered to perform a variety of functionsvariety of functions. About fibers properties ASTMASTM defines moisture regain as “the moisture in a material determined under prescribed conditions and expressed as

34、 a percentage of the weight of the moisture-free specimen. Moisture regainMoisture regain or absorbencyabsorbency depends on the fiber morphology or molecular arrangement and the pore size in the outer layer of fiber skin. conditioned weight-dry weight Percentage regain= x100 dry weight Fible t=20 h

35、umidity= a a= 65% a=95%a=100% cotton7-812-1423-27 ramie 7-8 hemp 10-138-22 wool15-17 26-2733-36 silk8-919-2236-39 rayon13-1529-3535-45 nylon3.5-5 8-9 10-13 polyester0.4-0.50.6-0.71.0-1.1 glass0 0-0.3 This table tells us that usually the moisture regain of natural fibers is higher thanhigher than the

36、 chemical fibers. . However, Rayon Rayon is an exception,its moisture regain is same as the natural fibers This is glass fiberThis is glass fiber How about the thermal behaviorHow about the thermal behavior ;such as ;such as refractoryrefractory ,specific heat,specific heat, heat conductionheat cond

37、uction Thermodynamic three-state of fiber material: glass high-elastic viscous state state flow state Tg Tt temperature Here we adopted the following table for the case of Here we adopted the following table for the case of fiber strength in the sunfiber strength in the sun Material cotton wool hemp

38、 layon PAN silk nylon PET Sunlight 940 1120 1110 900 900 200 200 600 Time 50 50 50 50 16-25 50 36 60 PANwoolhempcottonlayon PETnylonsilk Strength Loss This table shows the heat resistance of natural fiber and chemical fiber is more or less same,but the heat resistance of chemical fibers is slightly

39、lower than the natural fibers. In the natural fiber ,cellulose fiber better than protein fibers. The expansion of fiber performance in the water Fiber typesSd（）Sl（）Sa（）Sv（） cotton203040424244 silk16.318.71.31.6193032 wool151725263641 Viscose rayon 25523.74.85011474127 Copper ammonia fiber 3253265662

40、68107 Acetate fiber 9140.10.368 As is vividly indicated in the above chart , As is vividly indicated in the above chart , Moisture after the fiber volume Moisture after the fiber volume expansion. The lateral expansion of the expansion. The lateral expansion of the fiber is large while the longitudi

41、nal fiber is large while the longitudinal expansion of the fiber is small.expansion of the fiber is small. What is more ,the man-made fibers and What is more ,the man-made fibers and the natural fibers are all different, they the natural fibers are all different, they all do not have the same law.al

42、l do not have the same law. Common varieties of fiber lengthCommon varieties of fiber length Fiber varietiesFiber varietiesLengthLengthFiber varietiesFiber varietiesLengthLength Upland25 31Manila hemp3 20 Sea Island cotton33 46Hemp5 55 Fine wool40 100The long fiber55 65 Semi-fine wool70 300Wool fibe

43、r76 120 Cashmere22 36Cotton fiber38 41 mohair45 70ramie20 200 Silk60 1300jute1.5 5 flax12 24 We can also find the difference or sameness between We can also find the difference or sameness between natural fibers and chemical from natural fibers and chemical from identificationidentification Most nat

44、ural fiber and chemical fiber are flammable Black floc objects have left after natural fiber burned，but the black hard object is left for chemical fiber Natural fibers do not change near the fire source But chemical fiber close to the fire to melt When natural fiber burned ,you will smell a smell li

45、ke burning paper or burning feather; but so many kinds of smell have existed for chemical fiber. Fiber cross section Fiber cross section shape shape with fiber kinds with fiber kinds and different.and different. Natural fiber has its own form.Natural fiber has its own form. Chemical fiber accChemica

46、l fiber accor ording to the will of the ding to the will of the people can be shaped design silk spray holes people can be shaped design silk spray holes to get various special-shaped cross-section to get various special-shaped cross-section of fiber.of fiber. 桑蠶絲橫截面 山羊絨橫截面 (三)天然紡織纖維應(yīng)用現(xiàn)狀與前景 分析 一 、全球

47、天然紡織纖維的發(fā)展 圖1 全球天然紡織纖維的發(fā)展 注：注：1800年年 160.0 萬噸萬噸 2006年年 2709萬噸萬噸 年份天然纖維合計*棉纖維綿羊毛纖維生絲 1800160.0122.037.70.30 1850220.0173.046.530.47 1890305.10230.1473.771.19 1900392.09316.274.231.66 1910503.77421.080.522.16 1920547.05462.982.042.11 1930698.60592.7100.215.09 1940808.54697.1111.445.98 1950771.93664.710

48、5.351.88 19601200.211011.3145.813.10 19701342.441178.2160.154.09 19801590.911425.4160.505.61 19902073.711871.4195.46.91 20002059.631917.0132.89.83 20012209.122070.5127.511.12 20022068.631931.9126.310.43 20032194.172060.6122.011.57 20042754.662620.0122.312.36 20052577.452439.4122.815.25 20062709.0025

49、70.7122.715.60 表1. 二百年來棉毛絲纖維的發(fā)展（萬噸） 纖維品種全球年產(chǎn)量中國年產(chǎn)量中國加工量 棉纖維（皮棉）棉纖維（皮棉）2570.72570.7664.6664.61011.41011.4 麻纖維麻纖維 249.0249.0 38.2538.25 56.3656.36 苧麻（精干麻） 13.4 11.35 11.00 亞麻（打成麻） 44.1 10.30 25.86 黃麻（熟麻） 165.4 0.00 2.90 槿麻（熟麻） 18.415.8 15.8 漢（大）麻（精干麻） 6.8 0.4 0.4 其他麻纖維（凈麻） 0.9 0.4 0.4 毛纖維毛纖維 133.87133

50、.87 9.599.59 36.8536.85 綿羊毛（洗凈毛）122.78.3 35.97 山羊絨（無毛絨） 1.270.89 0.61 其他動物毛（凈毛） 9.90.40 0.27 絲纖維絲纖維15.615.614.514.511.211.2 桑蠶絲（生絲、絹絲）16.514.1510.9 其他絲纖維 1.10.35 0.30 天然纖維合計天然纖維合計2971.172971.17726.94726.941115.811115.81 表2 2006年天然纖維生產(chǎn)量及加工（萬噸） 纖維品種全球年產(chǎn)量中國年產(chǎn)量 棉纖維（皮棉）棉纖維（皮棉）2339.62339.6672.80672.80 麻纖維

51、麻纖維283.4283.436.4336.43 苧麻（精干麻）25.022.30 亞麻（打成麻）79.28.55 黃麻（熟麻）140.00.03 槿麻（熟麻）19.44.78 漢（大）麻（精干麻）3.40.44 劍麻（熟麻）16.40.29 其他麻纖維0.90.09 毛纖維毛纖維121.36121.3610.01510.015 綿羊毛（洗凈毛）119.108.50 山羊絨（無毛絨）1.140.85 牦牛絨（無毛絨）0.170.10 駱駝絨（無毛絨）0.070.015 兔毛0.630.50 其他毛纖維0.250.05 絲纖維絲纖維15.9015.9010.2110.21 桑蠶絲（生絲、絹絲）14

52、.409.86 柞蠶絲（生絲）0.750.26 其他絲纖維0.350.10 天然纖維合計天然纖維合計2760.262760.26729.46729.46 表3 2008年全球及中國天然纖維產(chǎn)量（萬噸） （1）二百年來，全球天然纖維加工量有了 蓬勃的發(fā)展，天然紡織纖維總量增長了15.9 倍，棉纖維產(chǎn)量增長了21.1倍，毛纖維增長 了2.25倍，生絲增長了51倍。但是近20年 來，綿羊毛縮減37%。 （2）近幾年來，全球棉纖維、毛纖維、麻 纖維、絲纖維的產(chǎn)量分別有所萎縮和徘徊。 （3）近年來，特種纖維使用種類有了增加。 （4）但是，今后隨著人口增漲，特別是產(chǎn) 業(yè)用紡織品使用領(lǐng)域擴大，紡織纖維原料

53、需求量還將大幅增加。隨著石油、天然氣 等的逐漸枯竭，紡織纖維原料將逐漸以可 再生、可循環(huán)、可降解、對環(huán)境友好的生 物質(zhì)資源纖維為主要來源。 二、中國天然紡織纖維的發(fā)展 中國天然紡織纖維六十年來有了長足進步，是全 球天然紡織纖維的重要生產(chǎn)大國。 棉纖維產(chǎn)量占全球總產(chǎn)量的26 綿羊洗凈毛占7 山羊絨占70 桑蠶絲占95 柞蠶絲占35 苧麻占85 亞麻占23 槿麻占86 年份棉纖維苧麻亞麻黃麻槿麻綿羊毛(凈 毛） 山羊絨(無 毛絨) 桑蠶絲柞蠶絲 194944.440.750.10 1952130.378121.409.151.640.102.171.89 1957164.021050.0030.1

54、01.940.112.311.38 1965209.78590.0027.903.380.202.061.19 1978216.70520.00108.806.220.156.071.69 1980270.65752.600.00109.857.160.178.002.34 1981296.75980.00126.006.940.168.801.84 1985463.700.00102.07.090.239.382.23 1988415.76.400.00107.87.980.2513.791.45 1989378.80.0066.029.970.2714.781.64 1994434.10.

55、0035.59.950.3525.641.95 1999382.80.0010.80 2000432.00.0010.51 2001479.90.0010.58 2002492.00.0010.55 2003486.99.83 2004631.98.23 2005581.87.96 2006706.410.308.300.6114.150.28 2007807.727.712.98.27.62 2008672.822.308.550.034.788.500.859.860.26 表4 中國天然纖維生產(chǎn)發(fā)展情況 經(jīng)濟發(fā)達的原紡織大國，由于勞動力成本躍 升，價格競爭力優(yōu)勢衰落，產(chǎn)業(yè)向第三世界 轉(zhuǎn)移。 近二十年來，紡織產(chǎn)業(yè)大量向中國轉(zhuǎn)移，使 中國成為全球紡織加工的第一大國，導(dǎo)致近 年紡織纖維原料不足，每年棉纖維進口量占 30-40，綿羊洗凈毛占75-78，亞麻占 60-70，黃麻幾乎全靠進口，為保證棉纖 維加工量，2006年以來中國已開始從29個 國家進口棉纖維。 三、中國天然紡織纖維面臨的挑戰(zhàn) （1）進入21世紀以來，全球人口暴增（聯(lián)合國 2000年發(fā)布預(yù)測2050年全球人口76億，2009年 1月發(fā)布預(yù)測2050年全球人口92億），及耕地面 積收縮，為保證糧食供應(yīng)，天然纖維種植受到制 約，不僅中國自產(chǎn)天然纖維數(shù)量受到制約，進口