Leather Making process BLC課件

1、Understanding LeatherOverview: Leather Making Process皮革加工的一般工序皮革加工的一般工序Understanding LeatherRaw Material Sourcing- Cow Hides原料采購原料采購 牛皮牛皮Understanding LeatherRaw Material Sourcing- Sheep Skins原料采購原料采購 綿羊皮綿羊皮Understanding LeatherRaw Material Sourcing- Pig Skins原料采購原料采購 豬皮豬皮Understanding LeatherPreser

2、vation Icing / Salting儲存儲存 冷卻冷卻/ 鹽漬鹽漬Understanding LeatherPreservation - Piled Salted Wool Skins儲存儲存- 堆垛存放的鹽漬羊皮堆垛存放的鹽漬羊皮Understanding LeatherProcess Drums處理處理轉(zhuǎn)鼓轉(zhuǎn)鼓Understanding LeatherBeamhouse Processes Soak - clean & rehydrate 浸水- 清洗和回濕 Unhair & Lime - uses sulphide & lime 脫毛與浸灰- 使用硫化物和石灰將生皮上的毛和表皮去

3、除 Flesh - remove excess tissue 去肉- 去除多余的皮下組織制革前處理工序制革前處理工序Understanding LeatherBeamhouse Processes Delime - neutralise alkali in hide 脫灰- 去除皮中的堿性物質(zhì) Bate - enzymes remove interfibrillary materials, hair roots 軟化- 用酶制劑去除纖維間物質(zhì)及發(fā)根等 Pickle - use of salt & acid to prepare for tannage 浸酸- 用鹽和酸進行處理，準備鞣制制革前處

4、理制革前處理工序Understanding LeatherTanning Conversion of skin into leather 將生皮轉(zhuǎn)化成革 Imparts thermal stability 賦予熱穩(wěn)定性 Prevents putrefaction 防止腐敗鞣制鞣制Understanding LeatherTanning Types Vegetable Tans - mimosa, oak, for shoes, belts, saddlery 植鞣- 荊樹皮栲膠，橡木栲膠；多用于鞋類，皮帶，馬具等 Chrome salts - upholstery, clothing, sho

5、e upper 鉻鞣- 鉻鹽鞣制；多用于沙發(fā)，服裝，鞋面等鞣制種類鞣制種類Understanding LeatherTanning Types Chrome free - usually aldehydes for automotive interiors 無鉻鞣- 通常采用醛鞣用于汽車內(nèi)飾件等 Aluminium - suedes, gloves 鋁鞣- 用于絨面革，手套等 Oil chamois 油鞣- 用于麂皮等鞣制種類鞣制種類Understanding LeatherHorsing Up Wet Blue Hides搭馬搭馬藍濕皮藍濕皮Splitting To reduce the t

6、hickness of the leather 減少皮層厚度 To cut the leather into layers - grain split and flesh split 將皮分開成層- 粒面層和二層或三層片皮機片皮機Understanding LeatherBand Knife SplittingMachine (Schematic)A Endless band knifeC Hide being splitD Grain (level) splitE Flesh (unlevel) splitF Support rollers for gauge rollerG Gauge r

7、ollerH Section rollerJ Rubber-clad support roller for HK Outlet plateM Knife backing plateN Hand wheels for adjusting height of GUnderstanding Leather帶式刀片皮機A 片皮刀C 待片蘭皮D 粒面層（水平）分割E 肉面層（非水品）分隔F 刀輥的支撐棍G 刀輥H 供料輥J 膠輥膠輥K 下料板M 頂?shù)栋錘 刀輥與供料輥間隙調(diào)節(jié)旋鈕Understanding LeatherWet Blue Grading藍濕皮分級藍濕皮分級Understanding Le

8、atherGrading and SortingSelect the hides for customer requirements, normally five grades.根據(jù)客戶需要，通常將皮革分為5個級別。挑選和分級挑選和分級Understanding LeatherRetannage Fill looser parts of the leather 填充皮革的空松部分 Modify the handle 改進手感 Improve penetration of dye/fatliquor 增進染料/加脂劑的滲透復鞣復鞣Understanding LeatherRetannage Gi

9、ves a unique character 獲得獨特質(zhì)地 Tighten the leather 使皮革緊實復鞣復鞣Dyeing Careful control of pH 注意控制pH值 Surface dyeing for bright shades 表皮層染色，提高鮮艷度 Penetration for nubucks 正絨面革的滲透染色染色Dyeing Controlled matching conditions 嚴格控制以符合客戶標準 Fastness of dyestuff 染色劑的穩(wěn)定性染色染色/涂飾？涂飾？Understanding LeatherFatliquoring T

10、his gives fashion leather its soft handle 賦予時尚性的皮革柔軟的手感 Natural and synthetic oils and fats are used 使用天然油和合成油及油脂乳液加脂乳液加脂Understanding LeatherFatliquoring They coat the fibres and allow flexing 加脂劑包覆住纖維，并保持一定的曲撓性能 Water proofing 防水性乳液加脂乳液加脂Understanding LeatherFatliquor Coating the Fibril加脂劑包覆住小纖維加脂

11、劑包覆住小纖維Understanding LeatherWaterproof Fatliquors防水性加脂劑防水性加脂劑Understanding LeatherUnloading Drums after Retan/Dye/Fatliquor復鞣復鞣/染色染色/加脂后卸載轉(zhuǎn)鼓加脂后卸載轉(zhuǎn)鼓Understanding LeatherVacuum Drying真空干燥真空干燥Understanding LeatherToggle Drying Hides繃板干燥繃板干燥Understanding LeatherHang Drying掛晾干燥掛晾干燥Understanding LeatherMa

12、chine StakingPurpose 目的 To soften the leather 使皮革柔軟 To increase the area 增加皮革面積機器拉軟機器拉軟Understanding LeatherMachine Staking機器拉軟機器拉軟Buffing and Brushing Mechanical abrasion to produce suede effect 機械磨察，以達到起絨的效果 To reduce / level substance 使革面平整均勻磨革及刷塵磨革及刷塵Understanding LeatherBuffing and Brushing To

13、correct the grain surface 修飾皮革粒面 To produce a fine nap for nubuck 制造良好絨面革的起絨效果 Brushing to remove dust 除磨革灰磨革及刷塵磨革及刷塵Understanding LeatherBuffing磨革磨革Understanding LeatherFinishingPurpose 目的 To provide an effect (touch, feel) 提供一定觸覺和外觀效果 To provide water repellency (cleaning) 提供水排斥性（清潔） To improve li

14、ght fastness (fading) 增加耐光色牢度涂飾涂飾Understanding LeatherFinishing To improve durability (scuffs, abrasion) 提高耐用性，防磨損，劃擦 To cover defects (scratch, insect) 遮蓋劃傷和蟲咬等缺陷 To alter brightness (glossy, matt) 改變光澤度 To improve colour (inconsistencies) 改進色均勻度涂飾涂飾Understanding LeatherFinish Application Roller co

15、ater 輥涂 Curtain coater 慕簾涂飾 Spraying machine 噴涂 Machine pad / Hand pad 機器揩漿/ 手工揩漿涂飾過程涂飾過程Understanding LeatherSprayingA Air compressorB Exhaust fan to remove air containing overspray from cabinetC Wire frame supporting skin being sprayed on spray cabinetD Spray gun fitted with pigment potECompressed air pressure regulator and air filterFCompressed air reservoirSpraying PlantUnderstanding LeatherEmbossingPurpose 目的 To create effects 產(chǎn)生不同的花紋效果 To cover defects 掩蓋缺陷壓花壓花Understanding LeatherRoller Embossing輥壓輥壓Understanding LeatherEmbosser roller壓花輥壓花輥Understanding LeatherCuring of the finish