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ChineseSilk:Traditional

SkillsandCraftsChapter5IdentificationofSilkFabrics5-3IdentificationMethodsPartIYAOPINGSuzhouInstituteofTrade&CommerceIdentificationMethodsTheidentificationoftextilefibersisanimportantandchallengingtask.Astherearemanywaysofidentifyingtextilefibers,thereisnostrictroutinetestmethodfollowedbythetextileanalyst.Fibersareidentifiedbyoneormoretestmethodsincombinationsuchasphysicalappearance,burningtest,microscopicanalysis,solubilitytest,stainingtestandphysicalpropertyanalysis.IdentificationMethodsAlthoughconventionalapproachessuchasmicroscopy,burningtest,stainingtestandsolubilitytestsareeasytoconduct,theyhaveseverallimitations:1.Thesemethodsaresubjectiveandrelyheavilyonexpertise.2.Thesemethodsaredestructiveasthereisfiberdamageduringthetest.IdentificationMethodsIdentificationbyphysicalappearanceItmaybesaidwithsomejustificationthatthesimplestandmostobviouswaytoidentifyafiberistolookatit.Asthephysicalappearancesoffibersdifferfromeachother,itcangiveapreliminaryindicationforfiberidentification.Successfulidentificationoffibersdependsonexperienceandfamiliaritywiththefibers.Thismethodissubjectiveandoftennotsufficientforthecompleteidentification.IdentificationMethodsBurningTestThisisthefirststepinthefiberidentification.Thistestreliesonthebehaviorofthefiberwhenexposedtoaflamedependingonthechemicalcompositionofthefiber.Inthismethodasmalltuftoffiberisheldbyforcepsforabout10sintheflameofaburnerandthenremoved.Thebehaviorofthefibertotheflame(whetheritburns,shrinks,formsanybead,thetypeofsmellemitted,natureofremnantash)helpsinidentifyingthegenerictypeofthefiber.Thismethodisstillusedinindustrywherethecompositionofanunlabeledbaleoffiberneedstobeidentified.Thismethodisveryquickandcanbeperformedalmostanywhere.IdentificationMethodsBurningTestHowever,thetestissubjectiveanddestructive,consumesaconsiderableamountofmaterialandcanproducetoxicfumessometimes.Table5-1describestheburningbehaviorofdifferentnaturaltextilefibers.IdentificationMetho

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