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文檔簡介

Challenge

the

authoritycoco

chanelGabrielle

Bonheur

Chanel

(19

August

1883

10

January1971)

was

a

French

fashion

designer

and

founder

of

theChanel

brand.

Along

with

Paul

Poiret,

Chanel

wascredited

with

liberating

women

from

the

constraints

of

the

"corseted

silhouette"

and

popularizing

the

acceptance

of

a

sportive,

casual

chic

look

as

thefeminine

standard

in

the

post-World

War

I

era.

A

prolificfashion

cator,

Chanel's

influence

extended

beyondcouture

clothireng.

Her

aesthetic

design

was

realized

injewelry,

handbags,

and

fragrance.

Her

signature

scent,Chanel

No.

5,

has e

an

iconic

product.

She

is

the

onlyfashion

designer

listed

on

Time

magazine's

list

of

the

100

most

influential

people

of

the

20th

century創(chuàng)新After

the

jersey

suit,

the

concept

of

the

little

black

dress

is

often

cited

as

aChanel

contribution

to

the

fashion

lexicon

and

as

a

type

of

clothing

that

is

still

worn

to

this

day.

Its

first

incarnationwas

executed

in

thin

silk,

crèpe

dechine,

and

had

long

sleeves.[115]

Chanel

started

making

little

black

dressesin

wool

or

chenille

for

the

day

and

in

satin,

crepe

or

velvet

for

theevening.[116]The

dress

was

fashionable,

yet

comfortable

and

practicalbecause

it

was

stripped

of

all

excess.

In

1926,

the

American

edition

of

Vogue

highlighted

such

a

Chanel

dress,

dubbing

it

the

gar?onne

(little

boylook).[56]

They

predicted

it

would

"

e

sort

of

a

uniform

for

all

women

of

taste",

embodying

a

standardized

aesthetic,

which

the

magazine

likened

tothe

democratic

appeal

of

the

ubiquitous

black

Ford

automobile.

Its

spare

look

generated

widespread

criticism

from

male

journalists

who

complained:"no

more

bosom,

no

more

stomach,

no

more

rump…Feminine

fashion

of

this

moment

in

the

20th

century

will

be

baptized

lop

off

everything."[117]

Thepopularity

of

the

little

black

dress

can

be

attributed

to

the

timing

at

which

itwas

introduced.

The

1930s

brought

in

the

Great

Depression

Era

during

which

women

desired

affordable

fashion.

Chanel

quoted,

“Thanks

to

me

they

(non-wealthy)

can

walk

around

like

millionaires.”[118]Maxine

Hong

KingstonChanel

was

convinced

that

women

would

ultimately

rebel

against

the

aestheticfavored

by

the

male

couturiers,

whatshe

called

"illogical"

design—the

"waistcinchers,

padded

bras,heavy

skirts,

andstiffened

jackets".

Now

overseventy

yearsold,

after

a

fifteen-year

absence,

she

felt

the

time

was

right

for

her

to

re-enter

thefashion

world.She

managed

to

fashion

herself

and

shape

her

own

destiny.

It

shows

what

a

strongpersonality

she

had.'?1883.8.19于法國的Auvergne一個(gè)女孩的誕生卻產(chǎn)生來改變世界的力量——她是第一個(gè)穿褲子的歐洲女人,她是第一個(gè)用自己名字命名香水的設(shè)計(jì)師,她改變了世界的審美風(fēng)向,女人不再只是脆弱柔美的象征,而可以成為一種優(yōu)雅的力量。潮流易逝,經(jīng)典永存,她是

Coco

Chanel。(人物背景)'I

don't

like

the

family,'

she

also

told

Delay.

'You're

born

in

it,not

of

it.

I

don't

knowanything

more

terrifying

than

the

family.'

And

so

she

circled

around

andabout

it,telling

and

retelling

thenarrative

of

her

youth,

remaking

history

just

as

she

remadethe

sleeves

of

a

jacket,

unfastening

its

seams

and

cutting

its

threads,

and

thensewingit

back

together

again.Friedrich

Von

Engels弗里德里?!ゑT·恩格斯(Friedrich

VonEngels,1820年11月28日-1895年8月5日),德國思想家、哲學(xué)家、革命家,馬克思主

義的創(chuàng)始人之一,是卡爾·馬克思的摯友,

被譽(yù)為"第二提琴手",他為馬克思創(chuàng)立馬克思主義提供了大量經(jīng)濟(jì)上的支持,在馬克

思逝世后,幫助馬克思完成了其未完成的《資本論》等著作,并且領(lǐng)導(dǎo)國際工人運(yùn)動。reference?Friedrich

Engels German

borninNovember

1820

5

August

1895)

was

aGerman

social

scientist,

author,

politicaltheorist,

philosopher,

and

father

of

Marxisttheory,

together

with

Karl

Marx.

In

1845

hepublished

The

Condition

of

the

WorkingClass

in

England,

based

on

personalobservations

and

research

in

Manchester.181888年的恩格斯1888年的恩格斯20年初冬,誕生于普魯士王國萊茵省巴門市(今伍珀塔爾)。父親老弗里得里希是工廠主,虔誠的基督徒,帶有普魯士貴族血統(tǒng)。母親心地善良,遵守禮教,喜愛文學(xué)和歷史。1837年,被父親命令從中學(xué)輟學(xué),到營業(yè)所學(xué)習(xí)其厭惡的經(jīng)商。As

he

grew

up,

his

relationship

with

his

parents

became

strainedbecause

he

developed

atheist

beliefs.[7]

His

mother

wrote

to

him

ofher

concerns:[8]

She

said

that

he

had

"really

gone

too

far"

and"begged"

him

"to

proceed

no

further."[8]

She

continued:"You

have

paid

more

heed

to

other

people,

to

strangers,

and

havetaken

no

account

of

your

mother's

pleas.

God

alone

knows

what

Ihave

felt

and

suffered

of

late.

I

was

trembling

when

I

picked

up

thenewspaper

and

saw

therein

that

a

warrant

was

out

for

my

son'sarrest."[8]When

his

mother

wrote,

Engels

was

in

hidingin

Brussels,

Belgium,soon

to

make

his

way

to

Switzerland.

In

1849,

he

returned

totheKingdom

of

Bavaria

for

the

Baden

andPalatinaterevolutionaryuprising.The

Engels

family

house

at

Barmen

(now

in

Wuppertal),

Germany.At

17

years

of

age,

young

Frederick

had

dropped

out

of

highschooldue

to

family

circumstances.

He

spent

a

year

in

Barmen.

In

1838,his

father

sent

the

young

man

to

work

as

a

nonsalaried

office

clerkat

a

commercia

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