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文檔簡介
Challenge
the
authoritycoco
chanelGabrielle
Bonheur
Chanel
(19
August
1883
–
10
January1971)
was
a
French
fashion
designer
and
founder
of
theChanel
brand.
Along
with
Paul
Poiret,
Chanel
wascredited
with
liberating
women
from
the
constraints
of
the
"corseted
silhouette"
and
popularizing
the
acceptance
of
a
sportive,
casual
chic
look
as
thefeminine
standard
in
the
post-World
War
I
era.
A
prolificfashion
cator,
Chanel's
influence
extended
beyondcouture
clothireng.
Her
aesthetic
design
was
realized
injewelry,
handbags,
and
fragrance.
Her
signature
scent,Chanel
No.
5,
has e
an
iconic
product.
She
is
the
onlyfashion
designer
listed
on
Time
magazine's
list
of
the
100
most
influential
people
of
the
20th
century創(chuàng)新After
the
jersey
suit,
the
concept
of
the
little
black
dress
is
often
cited
as
aChanel
contribution
to
the
fashion
lexicon
and
as
a
type
of
clothing
that
is
still
worn
to
this
day.
Its
first
incarnationwas
executed
in
thin
silk,
crèpe
dechine,
and
had
long
sleeves.[115]
Chanel
started
making
little
black
dressesin
wool
or
chenille
for
the
day
and
in
satin,
crepe
or
velvet
for
theevening.[116]The
dress
was
fashionable,
yet
comfortable
and
practicalbecause
it
was
stripped
of
all
excess.
In
1926,
the
American
edition
of
Vogue
highlighted
such
a
Chanel
dress,
dubbing
it
the
gar?onne
(little
boylook).[56]
They
predicted
it
would
"
e
sort
of
a
uniform
for
all
women
of
taste",
embodying
a
standardized
aesthetic,
which
the
magazine
likened
tothe
democratic
appeal
of
the
ubiquitous
black
Ford
automobile.
Its
spare
look
generated
widespread
criticism
from
male
journalists
who
complained:"no
more
bosom,
no
more
stomach,
no
more
rump…Feminine
fashion
of
this
moment
in
the
20th
century
will
be
baptized
lop
off
everything."[117]
Thepopularity
of
the
little
black
dress
can
be
attributed
to
the
timing
at
which
itwas
introduced.
The
1930s
brought
in
the
Great
Depression
Era
during
which
women
desired
affordable
fashion.
Chanel
quoted,
“Thanks
to
me
they
(non-wealthy)
can
walk
around
like
millionaires.”[118]Maxine
Hong
KingstonChanel
was
convinced
that
women
would
ultimately
rebel
against
the
aestheticfavored
by
the
male
couturiers,
whatshe
called
"illogical"
design—the
"waistcinchers,
padded
bras,heavy
skirts,
andstiffened
jackets".
Now
overseventy
yearsold,
after
a
fifteen-year
absence,
she
felt
the
time
was
right
for
her
to
re-enter
thefashion
world.She
managed
to
fashion
herself
and
shape
her
own
destiny.
It
shows
what
a
strongpersonality
she
had.'?1883.8.19于法國的Auvergne一個(gè)女孩的誕生卻產(chǎn)生來改變世界的力量——她是第一個(gè)穿褲子的歐洲女人,她是第一個(gè)用自己名字命名香水的設(shè)計(jì)師,她改變了世界的審美風(fēng)向,女人不再只是脆弱柔美的象征,而可以成為一種優(yōu)雅的力量。潮流易逝,經(jīng)典永存,她是
Coco
Chanel。(人物背景)'I
don't
like
the
family,'
she
also
told
Delay.
'You're
born
in
it,not
of
it.
I
don't
knowanything
more
terrifying
than
the
family.'
And
so
she
circled
around
andabout
it,telling
and
retelling
thenarrative
of
her
youth,
remaking
history
just
as
she
remadethe
sleeves
of
a
jacket,
unfastening
its
seams
and
cutting
its
threads,
and
thensewingit
back
together
again.Friedrich
Von
Engels弗里德里?!ゑT·恩格斯(Friedrich
VonEngels,1820年11月28日-1895年8月5日),德國思想家、哲學(xué)家、革命家,馬克思主
義的創(chuàng)始人之一,是卡爾·馬克思的摯友,
被譽(yù)為"第二提琴手",他為馬克思創(chuàng)立馬克思主義提供了大量經(jīng)濟(jì)上的支持,在馬克
思逝世后,幫助馬克思完成了其未完成的《資本論》等著作,并且領(lǐng)導(dǎo)國際工人運(yùn)動。reference?Friedrich
Engels German
borninNovember
1820
–
5
August
1895)
was
aGerman
social
scientist,
author,
politicaltheorist,
philosopher,
and
father
of
Marxisttheory,
together
with
Karl
Marx.
In
1845
hepublished
The
Condition
of
the
WorkingClass
in
England,
based
on
personalobservations
and
research
in
Manchester.181888年的恩格斯1888年的恩格斯20年初冬,誕生于普魯士王國萊茵省巴門市(今伍珀塔爾)。父親老弗里得里希是工廠主,虔誠的基督徒,帶有普魯士貴族血統(tǒng)。母親心地善良,遵守禮教,喜愛文學(xué)和歷史。1837年,被父親命令從中學(xué)輟學(xué),到營業(yè)所學(xué)習(xí)其厭惡的經(jīng)商。As
he
grew
up,
his
relationship
with
his
parents
became
strainedbecause
he
developed
atheist
beliefs.[7]
His
mother
wrote
to
him
ofher
concerns:[8]
She
said
that
he
had
"really
gone
too
far"
and"begged"
him
"to
proceed
no
further."[8]
She
continued:"You
have
paid
more
heed
to
other
people,
to
strangers,
and
havetaken
no
account
of
your
mother's
pleas.
God
alone
knows
what
Ihave
felt
and
suffered
of
late.
I
was
trembling
when
I
picked
up
thenewspaper
and
saw
therein
that
a
warrant
was
out
for
my
son'sarrest."[8]When
his
mother
wrote,
Engels
was
in
hidingin
Brussels,
Belgium,soon
to
make
his
way
to
Switzerland.
In
1849,
he
returned
totheKingdom
of
Bavaria
for
the
Baden
andPalatinaterevolutionaryuprising.The
Engels
family
house
at
Barmen
(now
in
Wuppertal),
Germany.At
17
years
of
age,
young
Frederick
had
dropped
out
of
highschooldue
to
family
circumstances.
He
spent
a
year
in
Barmen.
In
1838,his
father
sent
the
young
man
to
work
as
a
nonsalaried
office
clerkat
a
commercia
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