Clariant FinishingCraft or Science 藝術(shù)還是科學(xué) Experience Counts 依賴經(jīng)驗(yàn)

CraftorScience?

藝術(shù)還是科學(xué)?ExperienceCounts!

依賴經(jīng)驗(yàn)！ClariantFinishingBasicsCrustLeatherCanLookVeryNice....SoWhyDoWeFinishLeather?

皮坯也可能看上去非常好...那為什么要對(duì)皮革進(jìn)行涂飾Toaltertheappearanceandfeeling

改變外觀和手感Fashionrequirements

流行要求Customerrequirements

客戶要求Toprotectandimpartfastnessproperties

保護(hù)和賦予堅(jiān)牢度性能Longlastingarticle!

經(jīng)久耐用Toupgrade!

提高等級(jí)CoveringFaults

覆蓋缺陷IncreasingcuttingYield

增加出裁率HistoryofFinishing–Milestones

涂飾的歷史-里程碑Oil&WaxFinishes

油蠟涂飾ProteinFinishes

酪素涂飾AcrylicBinders

丙烯酸樹脂PolyurethaneBinders

聚氨酯樹脂Casein-freePigments

無酪顏料膏Water-BasedTopCoats

水性頂涂FoamFinishing

發(fā)泡涂飾StuccoUpgrading

補(bǔ)傷膏提升等級(jí)CationicFinish

陽離子涂飾RollerCoating

輥涂Reverserollercoatingforsoftleathers

軟革反向輥涂Water-basedFinishing

水性涂飾Solvent-freeProducts

不含溶劑的產(chǎn)品HeavyMetal-freePigments

不含重金屬的顏料膏FocusonEnvironmentallyFriendyProducts

專注于環(huán)保產(chǎn)品ClariantFinishingBrands?

科萊恩的涂飾品牌MELIO 樹脂/助劑/光油...NEOSAN 顏料膏

AQUALEN 水光/聚氨酯光體系

DifferentFinishingForDifferentTypesOfLeather

針對(duì)不同的皮革類型使用不同的涂飾GarmentNappa

軟服裝Brush-off–ShoeUpper

擦色-鞋面Nubuk/Suede

磨砂/二層絨面OilPullUp

油變Waterproof

防水Vegetable

植鞣革BoxLeather

平紋革PatentLeather

開邊珠AutomotiveLeather

汽車革WhiteSportsShoe

白色運(yùn)動(dòng)鞋革SofaLeather

沙發(fā)革PigskinGarment

豬皮服裝革Nappalan

綿羊肉面涂飾革GlazedGoat

山羊打光革Pigments

顏料Waxes

蠟Oils

油Fillers

填料Caseins/Proteins

酪素/蛋白Mattingagents

消光劑Water

水Binders

樹脂/成膜劑Feelagents

手感劑Flowmodifiers

流平劑RheologyModifiers

流變改進(jìn)劑/增稠劑Penetrators

滲透劑Solvents

溶劑Dyestuffs

染料PropertyModifiers

性能改進(jìn)劑CrossLinkers

交聯(lián)劑pHModifiers pH改進(jìn)劑TheBuildingBlocks

-Productgroupsusedinfinishing

涂飾所用產(chǎn)品NotesOnBindingMaterials

粘合材料的說明WhatIsAThermoplasticBinder?

何為熱塑性樹脂？StretchingAndFlexingPropertiesOfFilmVaryWithTemperature

膜的延伸和曲折性能隨溫度變化而不同HighBindingPower

粘合能力強(qiáng)Acrylic

丙烯酸Polyurethane

聚氨酯Butadiene

丁二烯WhatIsANon-thermoplasticBinder?

何為非熱塑性樹脂？FilmIsHardIndependentOfTemperature

膜硬并不隨溫度變化而變化LowBindingPower

粘合能力弱Casein/Protein

酪素/蛋白Nitrocellulose

硝化棉CelluloseAcetylButyrate(CAB)

醋酸丁酯纖維素WatchTheSolidContentsInBothCases!

注意它們的固含量！DesigningTheProcess-RecipeCombination

工藝流程和配方的設(shè)計(jì)CheckTheCrust!

檢查皮坯！StudyTheTargetArticleKeypoints

研究目標(biāo)產(chǎn)品的關(guān)鍵性能DetermineWhichProductsCanOrCannotBeUsed

確定哪些產(chǎn)品可以使用，哪些不能使用CheckTheKeySpecificationsToBeMet

檢查所要達(dá)到的關(guān)鍵要求CheckWhichMachinesAreAvailable

檢查有哪些設(shè)備可以使用Goal:QuickAndCheap!

目標(biāo)：快速、便宜AsFewOperationsAsPossible

盡可能少的操作FormulationsAsSimpleAsPossible

盡可能簡(jiǎn)單的配方BeforeYouStart-CheckTheCrust!

開始前-檢查皮坯！Colour

顏色Stretchiness

延伸性Looseness

松面情況Softness

柔軟度Fullness/Emptiness

豐滿/空狀況Graindamage

粒面損傷FibreLength(ifbuffedorsnuffed) 絨毛長(zhǎng)短(如果磨面)BuffingDust

磨革灰塵Greasiness

油膩狀況Absorption

吸收性StudyTheTargetArticle

研究目標(biāo)產(chǎn)品AreYouWorkingOnTheSameTypeOfCrust? BuffaloDoesn‘tHaveACalfGrain!

是在同一類皮坯上嗎？水牛不會(huì)有小牛的粒面！IsItFullyPigmentedOrAniline?

重顏料遮蓋還是苯胺涂飾？DoesItHaveASpecialEffect?

有特殊效應(yīng)嗎？IsItBuffed?

磨面的嗎？RubIt,PeelIt,BurnIt,PutItUnderTheLens!

擦擦它，摸摸它的手感，燒燒它，在放大鏡下看看！PossibleProductRestrictions?

可能的產(chǎn)品限制?SomeProducts:

一些產(chǎn)品：Yellow(WithHeatOrLight)

黃變(光，熱)BreakDownUnderCertainConditions(Eg.PU-HydrolysisProblems,NC-withPUFoam)

在特定條件下降解(如:聚氨酯-耐水解問題，硝化棉-發(fā)泡聚氨酯中)ContainBannedSubstances(HeavyMetals,SolventsEtc.)

含禁用品(重金屬,溶劑)MigrateIntoPVC

PVC遷移CauseFogging(Automotive)

引起霧化(汽車革)HaveCompatibilityProblems(EvenWater!) 有相容性問題(甚至水)AreTooExpensive!

太貴AreNotAvailableAtTheMoment!

目前沒有CompromiseBetweenProperties,AvailaibiltyAndCost!

綜合考慮性能、易得性和成本！CheckTheTargetSpecifications

檢查目標(biāo)產(chǎn)品的要求Aesthetics

美感Optic

外觀Colour

顏色SurfaceFeel/Touch

表面手感Handle

身骨Gloss

光亮度PhysicalProperties

物性Adhesion

粘著RubFastness

耐干濕擦AbrasionResistance

耐磨耗Flexibility

耐曲折LightFastness

耐光MigrationFastness

遷移性WaterVapourPermeability 透水汽性WaterProofness

防水性Water-spotResistance

耐水滴性SoilingResistance

防污性HydrolysisResistance

耐水解CheckTheAvailableMachines/Equipment

檢查可供使用的機(jī)器/設(shè)備FinishApplicationMachine

涂飾應(yīng)用設(shè)備DryingTunnel(Temp&Length)

干燥設(shè)備(溫度和長(zhǎng)度)Embossing

壓花設(shè)備Plating

燙平設(shè)備Ironing(Roto/Finiflex)

燙光設(shè)備Buffing

磨革設(shè)備Polishing(Stone/Felt)

拋光設(shè)備(石輪/毛輪)Glazing

打光設(shè)備DryShaving

干削設(shè)備DryMilling

摔軟設(shè)備StackingMethod

震軟方式MethodsOfApplication

涂飾應(yīng)用方式Spray

噴涂Air

氣壓噴槍Airless

無氣噴槍AirAssistant/Airmix

氣體輔助噴槍HVLP

高容量低氣壓噴槍RollerCoater

輥涂機(jī)Reverse

反向/逆向輥涂機(jī)Forward(Synchro)

同向/正向輥涂機(jī)CurtainCoater

簾幕涂飾機(jī)TransferCoater

移膜涂飾機(jī)DifferentHandSprayGuns

不同類型的噴槍

AirAirMix/HVLPAirlessOperatingPrinciple

工作原理SprayGun噴槍CurtainCoat簾幕涂飾OperatingPrinciple

工作原理RollerCoater滾涂Autospray

自動(dòng)噴漿機(jī)Autospray

自動(dòng)噴漿機(jī)RollerCoater

輥涂機(jī)ReverseRollerCoaterSynchroRollerCoater反向輥涂機(jī) 同向輥涂機(jī)CurtainCoater

簾幕涂飾機(jī)TransferCoater

移膜涂飾機(jī)RELEASEPAPER離型紙DETACHFINISHEDSPLIT成品二層皮剝離ADHESIVE粘著層SPLIT二層底膜中間膜烘道烘道烘道Formulating–DependsOnCoat

配方-取決于哪一層Impregnation

干填充Pre-groundsOrAdhesionCoat

預(yù)底涂或粘著層BaseCoats

底涂IntermediateLacquers

中間光油層TopCoats

頂涂層FeelCoats

手感層Flesh-sideCoats

肉面涂層PullUps

拉伸變色效應(yīng)層Example:FormulatingTheBaseCoat-StartingPoint:

舉例：底涂配方-起始點(diǎn)Non-filmFormers–MustBe?Bound“

不成膜100GPigmentMix 100克 顏料膏50GWax 50克 蠟劑50GCasein(protein) 50克 酪素/蛋白50GFiller/MattingAgent 50克 填料/消光劑Carrier

載體250GWater(AffectsFilmForming!) 250克 水Binders

粘合劑/樹脂50GAdhesionBinder(KEY!!!!) 50克 粘著性樹脂150GMainBinder(Acrylic) 150克 主要樹脂(丙烯酸)50GPropertyBinder(PU) 50克 物性樹脂(聚氨酯)50gSpecialPropertyBinder 50克 特殊物性樹脂

(E.G.Water-resistance) (如：抗水性)Additives,

添加劑5GFlowAgent 5克 流平劑10GViscosityAgent 10克 增稠劑10gFeelAgent 10克 手感劑10gPenetrator 10克 滲透劑2gCrossLinker 2克 交聯(lián)劑NoteOnThePigmentMix

混合顏料膏要點(diǎn)PigmentCharacteristics 顏料膏特性WhitesAndIronOxidesGiveGoodOpacity,GoodCovering, GoodFastnessAndNeedMoreBinding!

白色和氧化鐵具有很好的不透明性，好的遮蓋性， 好的物性，需要更多的粘合OrganicPigmentsAreMoreTransparent,HavePoorCovering Power,PoorLightFastness.

有機(jī)顏料膏更透明，遮蓋性差，耐光性差WatchOutForPigmentsWhichContainDyeTinters!

注意有些顏料有用染料調(diào)色頭OrganicRedsDestroyButadieneFilms!

有機(jī)紅色顏料會(huì)破壞丁二烯膜Casein-containingVs.Casein-free?

含酪素還是不含酪素？ColourMatching 配色UseComputerColourMatchingAsAnAidOnly!

電腦配色僅作為輔助工具Don‘tUseSmallAmountsOfOrganicPigmentsTo?Tune“TheShade.

不要使用少量的有機(jī)顏料來調(diào)色頭NotesOnCompactBinders

綜合樹脂的要點(diǎn)WhatisaCompactBinder? 什么是綜合樹脂

CombinationsOfAdditives(Wax,Filleretc.)AndBinders

調(diào)配好的添加劑(蠟劑，填料)和粘合劑KeyPoint:Stability(Viscosity&Layering)

關(guān)鍵：穩(wěn)定性(稠度和分層)TrueCompact

真正的綜合樹脂JustAddWaterAndPigment!

只需要加入水和顏料DesignTheProcess(Example:Sofa)

工藝流程設(shè)計(jì)(以沙發(fā)革為例)PossibleSteps:

可能的步驟SynchroRollerCoatPreGroundX1正向輥涂預(yù)底涂1次RotoPlate

滾壓AirlessSprayBaseCoatX1

無氣噴槍噴底涂1次Emboss

壓花Milling

摔軟SprayColourCoatX1

噴顏色層1次SprayTopCoatX2

噴頂涂2次Considerations:

需要考慮到：Simplicity=CostSavings!!

簡(jiǎn)單=節(jié)約成本PossibleColourChanges

可能的顏色變化IntercoatAdhesion

涂層間粘著PrintDefinition

壓花定型Sofness

柔軟度ThingsToWatchInApplication

應(yīng)用時(shí)應(yīng)注意的事項(xiàng)Alwaysstirtheproductsbeforeuse!

化工材料使用前總是攪勻Alwayswatchcarefullyasyoumakethefinishsolution

在配料時(shí)應(yīng)仔細(xì)觀察Makeityourself!

自己配料Checkcompatibility

檢查材料相容性ALWAYS,ALWAYSFilterTheFinishSolution!!!!!!!!!

配好的涂飾混合液切記一定要過濾Always,AlwaysTrySmallPiecesFirst–ScaleUpGradually!

一定要先試小塊—逐步放大Always,AlwaysGetGoodAdhesion! 一定要得到良好的粘著WatchTheAmountOfFinishApplied!

注意究竟有多少應(yīng)用量WatchTheFlow-out觀察流平性WatchTheFilmForming觀察成膜性AdjustSpeedWithWater,Solvent,DryingConditions

通過水,溶劑,干燥條件調(diào)節(jié)成膜速度WatchTheDryingConditions觀察干燥條件Tooquick->cracking

太快---裂漿Tooslow->non-continuousfilmorfloatingofpigmentsetc.

太慢—成膜不連續(xù),涂料流動(dòng)等Tackiness發(fā)粘TooMuchWax,FillerLeadsToPoorProperties!

太多的蠟和填料會(huì)導(dǎo)致物性差ThingsToWatchInApplication

應(yīng)用時(shí)應(yīng)注意的事項(xiàng)Embossing/PlatingMachinery

壓花/壓平板機(jī)HydraulicPlate

Rotopress

液壓式壓花機(jī) 滾燙/熨燙機(jī)ThingsToWatchInEmbossing(Plating)

壓花(壓平板)應(yīng)注意事項(xiàng)EveryMachineIsDifferent!每一臺(tái)機(jī)器都不一樣！ WhenToEmboss?

何時(shí)壓花Temperature&Pressure

溫度和壓力 IntercoatAdhesionProblems

涂層間粘著問題 Cut-throughProblems

切漿問題PlateRelease

離板性PrintRetention

壓花定型性FinishCharacteristics

涂層的性能CrustCharacteristics

皮坯的性能SmallPiecesNotSameAsBigPiece!

小塊和大張是不同的FilmAndLeatherDry?Really?

涂層和皮革干了？真的？Remember!

切記！SuccessfulFinishingDepends:成功的涂飾依賴