毛衫參考資料針織英文簡(jiǎn)介

1、毛織英文簡(jiǎn)介一）織法單邊plain 或 jersey坑條rib四平full needle扭繩cable珠地half cardigan柳條full cardigan手鉤邊crochet stitch搬針walk stitch掛毛intarsia拔花（雙）double jacquard元筒tubular挑吼pointelle 或 eyelet1x1 令土seeds stitch元筒拔花tub jacquard有底毛拔花（單）float jacquard反底單邊reverse jersey谷波ruffle 或 ripple 或 ottoman坎毛plaiting三平half milano 或 sem

2、i double knit打花tuck stitch 或 fancy stitch令士links 或 lynx stitch 或 purl曼花珠地racked half cardigan打雞full milano 或 double knit1x1單/雙1x1 rib single/double曼波rack 或 zigzag stitch二）縫盤（linking ）漏眼drop stitch笠錯(cuò)橫行incorrect course錯(cuò)縫毛incorrect yarn爛邊broken selvage黏邊selvage not straight縫線散口run off對(duì)位不符wrong position

3、 to linking骨位起蛇puckering領(lǐng)貼子口不均uneven seam跳線skip stitch領(lǐng)貼扭紋twist collar縫線緊或松uneven yarn tension鋤歪眼wrong position of needle and point鋤高stitch on the higher position起耳仔unwanted loops on stitch三）挑撞錯(cuò)針數(shù)incorrect hand stitch count不對(duì)支rib collar of v-point not match抽筋poor stitch線頭absence trimming沒有拉眼loops on

4、 collar stitch out of trimming四）補(bǔ)衣（mending ）錯(cuò)毛料wrong material補(bǔ)衣不良poor done of mending, objectionable mending錯(cuò)色紗wrong color to mending釘珠beading繡花embroidery印膠漿laster cut w/rubber coating原身出較結(jié)self tight字碼tension縫盤機(jī)looper配色match鉞骨車overlocking埋夾車linking machine搦腳車hemming machine打鈕車buttoning machine鈕門車but

5、ton holing machine衣（平）車electric sewing machine照燈inspecting lamp噴槍洗水機(jī)自動(dòng)蒸汽熨爐直間插袋反骨縫袖頂打褶前袋底抓毛spray gunwasherauto steam boilervertical stripedinsert pocketoutside loopingwith shirring on top of sleeveseal pocketinside brushed打毛機(jī) 燙斗 脫水機(jī) 干衣機(jī) 橫間 暗袋 衫身坎骨 扭骨winderironerextractortumblehorizontal stripedpatch

6、pockets flat lock body torque六）款式腰帶waist belt圍巾scarf橋陵stitch both side飛嘍/吊嘍top stitch背心slipover / vest套頭衫pullover褲pant開胸cardigan帽hood開胸背心sleeveless cardigan丈巾裙頭elastic waistband連衣裙dress半胸貼half placket半截裙skirt夾里lining后幅匙孔back key hole七）輔料膊棉shoulder pad拉煉zipper副嘍care label主陵back nk label魔術(shù)貼fastener ta

7、pe掛牌swing ticket 或 hangtag貼紙sticker丈斤elastic啞深克叨色dull dark pewter人字帶ctn twill tape青古色anti-brass啞紅古銅dull anti-copper啞叨色dull nickel克古銅anti-dark cooper爪釘nail heads急鈕snap button吊帶扣suspender buckles雞眼eyelets合金鈕及扣alloy button & buckles褲前扣trousers hook真殼鈕real shell button織繩draw string梳織布combed fabric水電鈕abs

8、 button帆布canvas掛耳hanger loop漂白布bleached piece goods石棉asbestos絲絨布flannelette仿殼鈕imitation shell button牛仔布denim色織布yarn dyed piece goods人造皮革synthetic leather)v)尺、量摩(measurements)身長(zhǎng)body length褲腳闊leg opening膊高點(diǎn)high point of shoulder ( hps)胸闊body width腳闊（裙擺彎度）bottom width (sweep meas curve)腳闊bottom width約克

9、高yoke height腳叉slit前/后浪深（裙頭底度）ft / bk rise (b,w.b)裙長(zhǎng)（裙頭下度）body length（b.w）袋位（側(cè)縫線度）pocket placement (from side seam)裙寬（裙頭下8度）上坐圍闊（裙頭下4）后坐圍闊（裙頭下8度）body width (8 b,w) high hip (4b,w)back 1/2 hip(8 b,w) w,b width (relaxed ) w,b heigth thigh (1 b, crotch)袋位（裙頭底度）袋完成尺寸小腿圍（浪底下21度）褲長(zhǎng)（沿線度）膝圍（浪底下14度）pkt plamt

10、(b, w.b)pocket finishcalf (21 b, crotch)inseam lengthknee(14 b, crotch)裙頭闊（拉度）裙頭高脾圍（浪底下1）九）領(lǐng)形（neck ）圓領(lǐng)round nk / crew nkv領(lǐng)v - nk樽領(lǐng)turtle nk大牛領(lǐng)cowl nk船領(lǐng)boat nk大圓領(lǐng)scoop nk反領(lǐng)collar out nk小企領(lǐng)mock turtle nk西裝反領(lǐng)shawl nk谷波領(lǐng)ottoman nk水波領(lǐng)/拋領(lǐng)ruffle nk方領(lǐng)square nk十)袖形 (sleeve )長(zhǎng)袖long sl短袖short sl蝙蝠袖dolman sl出袖c

11、ap sl搦袖咀袖頂fold slsleeve cap無袖sleevelessh)夾形(shoulder)平膊set-in馬鞍膊saddle shoulderl夾尖膊l-shaperaglan sl直夾straight ah十二）辦類（sample ）初辦initial / proto spl覆辦revised / dap spl生產(chǎn)批辦大辦production approval spl / psalesman spl.p spl船頭辦shippment spl十三）pp辦評(píng)語摘錄wavy起耳仔，走蛇，起波浪symmetrical對(duì)稱bar loop耳仔handfeel is slightly

12、 flimsy手感薄hairy（洗水）起毛flatten壓平pls bring to spc請(qǐng)跟足尺寸harsh手感粗糙overlocking thread鉞骨線bulk大貨needle streakgapping針路縫線太松而致抹坑pillings/b =must be起毛粒tack stitch釘合，挑合d.t.m ( dye to match)配色lustrous起境hiking吊起slub紗節(jié)/毛粒stick up豎起/有起伏knots結(jié)頭fray布頭擦傷stretch up戚起armpit夾底shoulder tape膊頭帶shiny mark起境lining里布bubble起泡泡/

13、谷氣wrinkle / puckering折皺，皺痕twist扭骨pulls毛粒barre花毛10mending mark補(bǔ)衣痕flaring out喇叭口man-fibre thread魚絲線hook & eye烏蠅扣scallop crochet手鉤荷葉邊main label s/b hand tack 4 cornercb seam s/b hand stitch i/o looping seampls back & repeat stitch in every 4-5 beads for securitybtn setting mark s/b removeelastic join /

14、 overlappattern s/b match at side seam十四）紗線種類（type of yarn）spun yarn短織紗線carded yarn普通紗combed yarn全精紗bleached yarn漂白紗woolen yarn粗紡紗core-stun yarn包芯紗spandex/lycra/elastic 彈性紗線fancy yarn花式紗slub yarn粗紡節(jié)紗70% lambswool 20% angora 10% nylon兔毛混紡70% lambswool 20%mohair 10% nylon么唏混紡一）物料，布料問題w/o wavy絕不可起波浪bra

15、 loop膊位啪鈕monofilament thread單絲主嘍必須手釘四角后中位必須手撞不可縫骨每4-5粒珠鎖針點(diǎn)鈕位粉筆印必須除去丈巾接駁處側(cè)骨線要對(duì)間filament yarn長(zhǎng)織紗線semi-combed yn半精紗raw white yarn原白紗singed yarn燒毛紗worsted yarn精梳毛紗stretch yarn伸縮紗線crimped yarn卷曲線紗bulked yarn蓬松紗noil silk yarn廢絲紡紗55% silk 15% angora 30% nylon 絲混紡1/rips, holes or cut裂痕，破洞，剪破broken of yarn斷毛

16、2/drops, tuck stitches漏針縫，壘針defective fabric步次品3/snags, pulls & knots裂口，抽絲，結(jié)頭wrong design of color錯(cuò)設(shè)顏色4/slubs more than 1/8”結(jié)頭大于1/8excessive crocking色澤度不符，色澤磨損5/needle lines定型，針痕razor cuts因修剪而損壞6/permanent creases / fabric死折痕stop marks停機(jī)痕7/bowing / torque, stripe + 1拱/斜紋（超 1）fold marking皺布痕8/bowing

17、/ torque, stripe + 1-1/2拱 /斜紋（超 1.5）torquing / seam twist縫合扭骨9/barre marks / thick & thin橫路紋（粗紋紗）rtv material defects退回廠房因物料問題10/def. nap direc or grain毛方向不對(duì)（順逆毛）pilling起毛粒11/emb defect繡花質(zhì)量不良defective leather皮革次品12/rib bottom defect下罷羅紋差fabric flaws面料瑕疵13/14/nafter treatment abrasionstitch distortio

18、n色差問題處理后磨損針縫歪曲defective print印花次品1/shade within garment一件衣服內(nèi)的色差fading褪色2/shaded trim配料/配片色差rtv shading defers退回廠房因色差問題3/shade interior parts內(nèi)部，里部色差do not use （fold marks）皺痕4/dye streaks染光痕shade not to standard色差不符標(biāo)準(zhǔn)5/shading gmt to gmt衣服與衣服有色差do not use （delamination）污染6/bleeding脫色污染7/bleach stains漂

19、白污染三）污染問題1/oil. stns 1/8 + diameter油漬2/fly ( foreign yarn )飛毛3/excess contaminate in gmt大片臟污，污染4/undesirable odor臭味/不可接受的臭味5/unremove soabar ticket貼紙撕開后不整潔6/wet garments衣服洗后，未干7/chalk marks粉筆痕四）裁片及組合1/missing parts ( major )2/missing operation3/ part twist. distored , placket4/misalign, part 1/45/be

20、lt loops defective6/linking not matching7/linking shrunk8/stripes not matching9/checks not matching10/piping not matching11/ wrong size / type s/p12/poorly shaped lapels13/ do not use ( remove sash )14/miss match parts15/wrong s/p ( minor )16/ do not use ( slv too long )17/ missing parts ( minor )18

21、/ missing beads / pearls / etc.19/ do not use ( attach scarf )20/ uneven fronts21/ defective pearl / beads / etc.22/ loose bead / pearl / sequins23/ pattern not matched24/ rtv components / assembly25/ defective velcro26/ wrong sh. pad plmt ( woven )27/ smiling pockets28/ loose / missing coins29/ wro

22、ng sh. pad plmt ( knits )30/ poor workmanship31/ garment hiking up32/ fusing delamination33/ incorrect belt placmentwrong shade codertv cleanlinessthread contaminationlint contaminationspot cleaning abrasionmisc. stainsgum residua欠配片或漏縫漏工序有扭骨，歪曲門襟附件高低1/4馬王帶不良（耳仔）里布縫不正確里布縮小過度不對(duì)條不對(duì)格不對(duì)牙邊或包縫錯(cuò)規(guī)格/型膊棉大關(guān)刀門襟

23、不良（大反領(lǐng)腰帶可移動(dòng)裁片或部位不對(duì)稱錯(cuò)膊棉袖太長(zhǎng)欠配片或漏縫片漏釘珠領(lǐng)巾要釘在一起前片不對(duì)稱珠片次品珠片釘縫散圖形不配退回廠房毛鉤（魔術(shù)貼）有問題肩棉位置錯(cuò)袋口不平服標(biāo)袋松漏肩棉位置錯(cuò)（針織）工藝不良衣服吊骨（前中或后中吊起粘合沾污腰帶位錯(cuò)分色錯(cuò)誤退廠因污染因線而成的污染布與布間污染清洗污漬后磨損不同性質(zhì)污漬粘后殘余污漬縫線爆口下擺不平均雙針扭線距離1/8 針孔，剪破一部分步片誤縫合 縫骨扭/起皺/打折 縫骨線太松或太緊 縫線沒有回針裂口或破口針步太密或不正確 回條之縫線質(zhì)量不良 包邊頭尾不齊或露毛邊 線粗細(xì)不對(duì)里布太長(zhǎng)下擺沒有挑腳機(jī)縫合斷面線疏縫針步不正確 底貼沒回針縫高低袋口修補(bǔ)袖骨裁格

24、仔布不正確里布縫頭不正確 套結(jié)問題（打棘） 車縫時(shí)混有廢物 退回廠方縫隙外露（爆線） 折，挑縫合正確燙焦痕整燙過度拉緊過度或歪曲印痕太多嚴(yán)重起鏡死皺痕整燙不良（嚴(yán)重） 手感不合要求 返洗后燙線頭多，沒修剪粘合不正確整燙不良（輕微） 整燙不正確退回廠因整燙問題 酸堿值太高五）縫合問題1/open seam2/uneven hems3/dbl. stng. gap 1/8 +4/needle holes or cuts5/ gmt. part caught in seam6/seams twisted pucker orpleated7/st. tension . too loose ortigh

25、t8/stitch not back tacked9/raw edges10/stitching density11/poor quality seam repair12/piecing/joining of wrong color13/ monofilament or wrong color14/ do not use ( lining long )15/ hem not blind stitched16/ broken top stitch17/ incorrect basting stitch18/ facing not tacked19/ hi/low pocket20/ do not

26、 use ( repair slv )21/ plaid dist/incorrect cut22/lining hem incorrect23/bar tack problems24/sewn in waste25/rtv seams & stitch26/crack stitch showing27/ dart/pleat sewn incorrect/feeder damage六)后整1/burned or scorched2/ hard finishing ( overpressed )3/stretched or distorted4/excessive wrinkles5/do n

27、ot use ( shine serious )6/permanent wrinkles7/ pressed poorly ( major )8/do not use ( fabric hand )9/ do not use ( rewash press )10/ excessive threads untrimmed11/ improper fusing12/ pressed poorly ( minor )13/ incorrect pressing14/ rtv finishing & pressing15/p.h too high更換臟污膠袋返車胸貼欠掛牌掛牌沒釘牢錯(cuò)掛牌錯(cuò)嘍頭/成份/

28、洗水嘍頭位置偏差1/4嘍頭縫線不適合嘍頭縫線顏色不配陵頭不平服陵頭手感不好（粗糙/僵硬）欠嘍頭或縫不牢嘍頭上錯(cuò)尺碼陵頭部份設(shè)計(jì)不正確嘍頭損壞錯(cuò)衣架錯(cuò)箱尺寸膠袋印錯(cuò)尺寸掛牌位置錯(cuò)誤欠士啤鈕掛牌內(nèi)有錯(cuò)字/串錯(cuò)字士啤袋錯(cuò)位置應(yīng)選配而沒選配正確掛牌條形碼錯(cuò)誤條形碼不能閱讀（印制不清楚） 條形碼牌c/d級(jí)（不合格） 因掛牌而成的破洞配料印刷質(zhì)量不良掛牌混碼（大碼與小碼）膠袋不夠長(zhǎng)因衣架/衣夾而成的壓印建議零售價(jià)錢錯(cuò)誤因膠紙袋而成的退色裝箱太滿錯(cuò)章/貼紙尺碼帶不合要求嘍頭不正中口袋位置錯(cuò)誤門襟口袋型不良定位/車縫歪曲錯(cuò)尺寸或錯(cuò)型斜口袋蓋16/ change dirty plastic bag17/ re-

29、setting fabric placket七)上頭，牌，箱陵1/hangtag omitted2/h/t insecurely attached3/wrong h/t used4/wrong label / content / care5/label location 1/46/label sewn monofilament7/label thread not matching8/label sew uneven, puckered9/harsh or stiff label10/ label omitted or insecure11/wrong size on label12/defec

30、tive logo13/damaged label14/wrong hangers15/wrong carton16/wrong style on bag17/wrong h/t placement18/extra button omitted19/ wrong spelling / group name20/wrong button bag placement21/not sorted correctly22/wrong bar code#23/bar code not readable24/failed scangrade bar code25/holes from h/t26/defec

31、tive print27/mixed style (m/p)28/open / short poly bags29/clip / hanger marks / shines30/wrong sugg. retail price31/scotch tape discoloration32/over packed containers33/wrong flasher used34/wrong size stripe used35/label not symmetry八)口袋，門襟問題1/wrong location 1/42/shaded poorly3/set or sewn crocked4/

32、wrong size or shape5/slanted pocket flaps6/unbalanced pockets口袋不對(duì)稱7/uneven placket length門襟長(zhǎng)短8/pleat at corner of pockets門襟角位打折9/crooked placket門襟歪曲10/lump at corner of flaps口袋袋角起皺有硬物11/holes at corner of pockets袋角有破洞12/puckering around pockets口袋起皺九）領(lǐng)/袖口問題1/puckered collars領(lǐng)起皺2/collar pts not uniformed領(lǐng)尖不規(guī)范3/puckered / crooked topstitch面線不直，彎曲4/twisted cuff袖口扭骨5/uneven cuff st bottom袖口下罷圓圈不順6/insufficient elasticity橡皮裝彈力不夠7/loop o