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1、Unit4牛津Therearecertainthingsintheworldthataresopraiseworthythatitseemsaneedless,indeedanalmostlaughablethingtopraisethem;suchthingsareloveandfriendship,foodandsleep,springandsummer;suchthings,too,arethewisestbooks,thegreatestpictures,thenoblestcities.ButforallthatImeantotryandmakealittlehymninprosei

2、nhonourofOxford,acityIhaveseenbutseldom,andwhichyetappearstomeoneofthemostbeautifulthingsintheworld.此世間確有諸多凡物,它們本身便是值得人們?nèi)テ肺逗唾澴u的,譬如說愛情和友誼、美食和睡夢、春色和夏日,還有如那些注滿了智慧的書卷、注滿了心血的畫作和注滿了圣意的城邦。也許對于這些凡物而言,再多的贊譽已無非是陳詞濫調(diào),荒唐可笑的,但我之所以還是想要對上述這些事物品味、贊譽一番,都是為了向牛津城表示我的敬意。|牛津城對我來說,就是這世間極其罕見,又最為美麗的地方之一。Idonotwishtosingleo

3、utparticularbuildings,buttopraisethewholeeffectoftheplace,suchasitseemedtomeonadayofbrightsunandcoolair,whenIwanderedhourafterhouramongthestreets,bewilderedandalmostintoxicatedwithbeauty,feelingasapoormanmightwhohaspinchedallhislife,andmadethemostofsinglecoins,andwhoisbroughtintothepreseneeofaheapof

4、piled-upgold,andtoldthatitisallhisown.我并不想單獨從牛津城里遴選出一些建筑來贊譽;我想要贊譽的是這塊土地上所映射出的一種整體效果。這種效果在我看來,就好比是在一個陽光明媚、天氣清爽的日子里,一連花上幾個小時,徜徉在牛津城的街道上,癡迷、甚至是沉醉于這番美景之中。這感覺就猶如是把一位窮得一輩子衣衫襤褸、靠一角一分過日子的人帶到一堆金礦旁,然后告訴他,這些財富都已歸他所有。IhaveseenitsaidinfoolishbooksthatitisamisfortunetoOxfordthatsomanyofthebuildingshavebeenbuiltou

5、tofsoperishableaveinofstone.Itisindeedamisfortuneinonerespect,thatittemptsmenofdullandprecisemindstorestoreandreplacebuildingsofincomparablegrace,becausetheiroutlineissoexquisitelyblurredbytimeanddecay.Iremembermyself,asachild,visitingOxford,andthinkingthatsomeofthebuildingswerealmostshamefullyruino

6、usofaspect;nowthatIamwiserIknowthatwehaveinthesebatteredandfrettedpalace-frontsakindofbeautythatfillsthemindwithalmostdespairingsenseofloveliness,tilltheheartacheswithgratitude,andthrillswiththedesiretoproclaimthegloryofthesightaloud.我曾在一些荒謬、無理的書里讀到說,牛津城里如此之多的建筑都用易被腐蝕、布滿裂紋的磚石砌成,這簡直就是一場災難。從某種角度來說,這倒確

7、實是一場災難,因為隨著時間的流逝,用這種磚石砌成的建筑會漸漸破敗,建筑的輪廓會很明顯地變得七零八落,這便會惹得那些腦袋不靈活的笨家伙們想著整修或重建這些與牛津城魅力格格不入的破玩意兒”記得在我兒時游訪牛津城時,我也曾這么想一一這些建筑如此破舊不堪,幾乎都是見不得人了;可現(xiàn)在,隨著我年數(shù)和閱歷的增益,我才知道在那些破舊不堪、磨壞受損的殿堂式房子里,蘊藏著一種別樣的魅力。這種魅力乍看上去真是令人幾近絕望,直到人們對這壯觀之景開始心生感激時,才會猛地萌發(fā)出一種要高聲贊譽這股魅力的念頭。Theseblack-frontedblisteredfacades,sothreatening,sosombre,

8、yetscreeningsobrightandclearacurrentoflife;withthetendergreenofbuddingspringtrees,chestnutsfullofsilveryspires,glossy-leavedcreepersclinging,withtinyhands,tocorniceandparapet,givesurelythesharpestandmostdelicatesensethatitispossibletoconceiveofthecontrastonwhichtheesseneeofsomuchbeautydepends.Topass

9、throughoneofthesedarkandsmoke-stainedcourts,witheverylinemellowedandharmonised,asifithadgrownupsooutoftheearth;tofindoneselfinasunnypleasaunce,carpetedwithvelvetturf,andsetthickwithflowers,makesthespiritsighwithdelight.牛津大學城里這些滿目蒼夷、發(fā)黑起泡的建筑,乍看上去是如此地陰沉、昏暗,其實也映射出著一番光鮮、清新的生命力一一樹木在春天冒出了綠葉嫩枝,栗子樹上竄滿了毛茸茸的幼葉

10、,葉面光亮的爬山虎將它無數(shù)細小的藤蔓吸在了建筑的檐口和擋墻上。這便無疑給了人們一種極為強烈又相當細膩的生命感,讓人構(gòu)想出一副融此美景于一體、反差鮮明的畫面。隨意穿過校園里的那些陰暗、黝黑的院子,院子的墻角線既沉穩(wěn)又潤和,就仿佛是從地下竄出來似的;再找個陽光明媚的日子,到那鋪滿絨草、綴滿繁花的庭子里去,人的一呼一吸之間都能透射出內(nèi)心中的愉悅之情。那些高大的門柱可是這世上其他地方看不到的,門柱的頂部嵌有一塊紋章,細長的爬山虎藤蔓舒展地纏在門柱間的鐵格柵上,真是惹人喜愛。Nowhereintheworldcanoneseesuchathingasthosegreatgate-piers,withac

11、ognisancea-top,withagrilleofiron-workbetweenthem,allsweetlyentwinedwithsomeslimvagrantcreeper,thatgiveaglimpseandahintnomoreofafairy-landofshelterandfountainswithin.Ihaveseensuchpalacesstandinquietandstatelyparks,asold,asmajestic,asfinelyproportionedasthebuildingsofOxford;buttheveryblacknessofthecit

12、yair,andthedriftingsmokeofthetown,givesthataddedtouchofgrimnessandmysterythatthecountryairscannotcommunicate.透過那些鐵格柵,便可略微瞥見一一僅僅是可以略微瞥見一一那里面如仙境般的屋舍和噴泉。這樣的建筑,我倒是在一些莊重而寂靜的庭院里看到過,那些建筑也是破舊不堪,但卻相當高貴,和牛津大學城里的這些建筑就好像是一個模子里刻出來似的。但是,這兒校園里昏昏沉沉的氣息,和鎮(zhèn)上一屢一屢的炊煙,給這里增添了一股鄉(xiāng)村庭院里找不到的敬畏感和神秘感。Andevenfairersightsarecontai

13、nedwithin;thosepanelled,dark-roofedhalls,withtheirarrayofportraitsgravelyandintentlyregardingthestrangers;thechapels,withtheirsplendidclassicalscreensandstalls,richanddimwithancientglass.Thetowers,domes,andsteeples;andallsetnotinamereparadiseoflawnsandglades,butintheveryheartofacity,itselffullofquai

14、ntandancienthouses,butbusywithalltheactivityofabriskandprosperoustown;therebyagaingivingthestrongandsatisfyingsenseofcontrast,thesenseofeagerandevery-daycaresandpleasures,sidebysidewiththesesecludedhavensofpeace,thecourtsandcloister,wheremenmayyetlivealifeofgentlethoughtandquietcontemplation,untroub

15、led,nay,evenstimulated,bythepreseneeofabustlinglifesonearathand,whichyetmaynotintrudeupontheolderdream.而牛津大學城里其實還蘊藏著更為悅目的景象一一那些黑頂?shù)暮廊A大廳里整齊地陳放著大量人像畫,那畫里的人似乎正認真又專心地打量著來客;小教堂的圍屏和長凳精致而古雅,五彩的玻璃使里面看上去既昏暗又華麗。還有那塔樓、穹頂和教堂尖頂?shù)龋孟穸疾粌H僅是矗立在這校園里天堂般的草坪和林地上,也矗立在整座牛津城的中心。牛津城里也全是些別致又古老的房屋,但忙忙碌碌的城里人,使這里多了一份生機勃勃、繁榮興旺的景象,

16、又給人們留下了一副強烈卻美好的反差印象。那四處靜謐的港灣、天井和修道院,可使來客熱切地感受到人們?nèi)粘I钪械膽n慮和愉悅。在這兒過日子的居民,不受世俗的侵擾,他們常常會想著什么東西,靜靜地沉思,又亦或是受到那咫尺間喧囂與繁華的啟發(fā),可那喧囂和繁華卻不會侵擾他們重溫舊夢。Idonotknowwhethermytasteisentirelytrustworthy,butIconfessthatIfindtheItalianateandclassicalbuildingsofOxfordfinerthantheGothicbuildings.TheGothicbuildingsarequainter,

17、perhaps,abouttheclassicalpicturesque,butthereisanairofsolemnpompandsoberdignityabouttheclassicalbuildingsthatharmonisesbetterwiththesenseofwealthandgravesecuritythatissocharacteristicoftheplace.我不知道自己的鑒賞能力是不是完全地可靠,但坦白地說,我覺得牛津城里意大利風格和古典風格的建筑要比哥特式風格的建筑好看。哥特式建筑的樣子看上去更古雅,或許還更別致,可是古典風格的建筑散發(fā)著一番莊重又壯麗的氣質(zhì),這種

18、氣質(zhì)與這片土地上特有的華貴和沉穩(wěn)更好地融為了一體。TheGothicbuildingsseemasurvival,andhavethusamoreromanticinterest,amorepoeticalkindofassociation.Buttheclassicalporticosandfacadesseemtopossessanoblerdignity,andtoprovideamoreappropriatesettingformodernOxford;becausethespiritofOxfordismorethespiritoftheRenaissaneethanthespiri

19、toftheSchoolmen;andpersonallyIpreferthatecclesiasticismshouldbemoreofaflavourthanatemper;SchoolmenImeanthatthoughIrejoicetothinkthatsoberecclesiasticalinfluencescontributeaseriousgracetothelifeofOxford,yetIamgladtofeelthatthespiritoftheplaceisliberalratherthanecclesiastical.哥特式建筑已所剩無幾,故而透著一股更為傳奇和詩意的

20、色彩,而古典風格建筑的門廊和外立面卻看似更為堂皇,為現(xiàn)代牛津創(chuàng)造了一副更為貼切的布景一一因為相較于腐朽、封建的經(jīng)院教條風氣,現(xiàn)代的牛津精神更貼近于強調(diào)個人、精巧新奇的文藝復興精神,而且即使是有教條主義,我也希望其對于牛津精神更多地是一種補充,而不是一種支配。我的意思是,盡管經(jīng)院風氣那源于基督教會的神圣影響力能給牛津帶來上帝的恩典一一這讓我感到高興,但我更樂意去感受牛津精神變得自由又開明,而不是嚴格恪守于教會。SuchtracesasoneseesinthechapelsoftheOxfordMovement,intheshapeofpaltrystainedglass,starredrered

21、oses,modernGothicwoodwork,wouldbepurelydeplorablefromtheartisticpointofview,iftheydidnotpossessahistoricalinterest.Theyspeakofinterrupteddevelopment,anattempttoputbacktheshadowonthedial,toreturntoanarrowerandmorerigidtone,toputoldwineintonewbottles,whichbetraysawantofconfidenceintheexpansivepowerofG

22、od.Ihatewithadeep-seatedhatredallsuchattemptstobindandconfinetherisingtideofthought.Iwanttoseereligionvitalandnotformal,elasticandnotcrampedbyprecedentandtradition.AndthusIlovetoseeworshipenshrinedinnobleclassicalbuildings,whichseemtometospeakofadesiretoinfusetheintellectualspiritofGreece,thedignifi

23、edimperialismofRomeintothemoretimidandsecludedecclesiasticallife,makingitfuller,larger,morefree,moredeliberate.牛津精神的這種發(fā)展特點,正是人們可以從十九世紀牛津運動時代留下的小教堂中,那小型的花窗玻璃、星星點點的供壇背壁和現(xiàn)代哥特式木工中體會得出的。如果這些玻璃、背壁和木工背后沒有丁點文化歷史可尋,單單是要從美術(shù)角度去品鑒,那可就是糟糕透頂?shù)牧怂鼈兯鶟B透的正是一種斷斷續(xù)續(xù)的歷史發(fā)展過程,這就好比是嘗試將撥號轉(zhuǎn)盤倒著轉(zhuǎn)回去,或回歸到前人一本正經(jīng)的說話腔調(diào),不過是使陳酒換上新瓶。這背叛了

24、人類在上帝廣泛支配下應當謙卑、恭順的教會道義,可我壓心底里痛恨一切限制與制約新興思想萌發(fā)的企圖,我所想要看見的宗教是那種富有生機而不拘泥、擅于變通而不受慣例和傳統(tǒng)阻礙的宗教,所以,我希望看到宗教信仰僅僅是被放在那些堂皇的古典風格建筑中供人祀奉。這在我看來,才表達了一種要在那較收斂和隱蔽的經(jīng)院風氣中注入古希臘智慧文明和古羅馬高貴勢力的愿望,以使那經(jīng)院風氣更完整、更宏大、更自由、也更謹慎。Butevenapartfromthebuildings,whichareafterallbutthebodyoftheplace,thesoulofOxford,itsinnerspirit,iswhatlen

25、dsititssatisfyingcharm.Ontheonehand,itgivesthesenseofthedignityoftheintellect;onereflectsthatherecanbelivedlivesofstatelysimplicity,ofhighenthusiasm,apartfrompersonalwealth,andyetsurroundedbyenoughofseemlydignitytogivelifethecharmofgraveorderandquietsolemnity.Hereareopportunitiesforpeacefulandcongen

26、ialwork,tothesoundofmellodiousbells;uninterruptedhours,asmuchsocietyofasimplekindasamancandesire,andthewholewithabackgroundofexquisitebuildingsandrichgardens.但建筑畢竟只是牛津的軀殼,除去這建筑,同樣可令人心滿意足的牛津魅力源于它的靈魂,或者說,是牛津內(nèi)在的精神。這種精神在一方面使智者獲得了一種被尊重的感受。在這里,人們會感到生活里所有的不僅僅是個人的財富,還有從容的簡適和高漲的熱情,以及處處都有的尊嚴感,這種得體的尊嚴感使這里秩序森嚴、

27、氛圍莊重。人們在此可以安安靜靜、愉快舒適地工作,聽著美妙的鐘聲,看著遠處精致典雅的建筑和姹紫嫣紅的花園,一連幾個小時都不會受到打擾這正是人們所能向往的一種簡簡單單的人際社會。Andthen,too,thereisthetideofyouthfullifethatfloodseverycorneroftheplace.Itisanendlesspleasuretoseethetroopsofslimandalertyoungfigures,fullofenjoymentandlife,withallthebestgiftsoflife,health,work,amusement,society,

28、friendship,lyingreadytotheirhand.Thesenseofthisbeatingandthrillingpulseoflifecirculatingthroughthesesombreandsplendidbuildingsiswhatgivestheplaceitsinnerglow;thislifefullofhope,ofsensation,ofemotion,notyetshadowedordisillusionedorweary,seemstobeasthefireonthealtar,throwingupitssharpdartingtonguesoff

29、lame,itscloudsoffragrantsmoke,givingwarmthandsignificanceandafieryhearttoasombreshrine.此外,牛津處處都充斥著青春的活力,看著那些身形矯健、風華正茂的年輕人,總能感到無限的喜悅。這些快活樂觀、精神奕奕的年輕人身體棒、有事做、有樂找、有朋友,也有伴侶這可都是生活中的至禮。這些朝氣澎湃、振奮人心的生命穿梭在牛津城暗淡卻壯麗的建筑間,給牛津增添了一道內(nèi)在的光輝。他們的生活盡有憧憬、有激奮、有情感;它沒有疑慮,失望或是疲憊,就像是圣壇之火,吐著跳動的火舌,燃起芳香的煙霧,給這陰暗的圣祠增添了暖意和肅穆,惹得人心里便如

30、火焰般熾熱。AndsoitisthatOxfordisinasortamagneticpoleforEngland;apolenot,perhaps,ofintellectualenergy,orstrenuousliberalism,orglamorousaims,orpoliticalideas;few,perhaps,ofthesturdyforcesthatmakeEnglandpotentlygreat,centrethere.ThegreatnessofEnglandis,Isuppose,madeupbyherbreezy,loud-voicedsailors,herlively

31、,pluckysoldiers,herardent,undefeatedmerchants,hertranquiladministrators;bythestubbornadventurousspiritthatmakesitselfathomeeverywhere,andfindsitnaturaltoassumeresponsibilities.而且,牛津也已成為整個英國的磁心,這或許不是智慧力量之心、頑強自由主義之心、高聲喧囂目標之心或是政治理想之心,也不太可能是堅韌力量之心,使英國變得強大有力、舉足輕重。在我看來,英國的偉大之處源于她傲慢、粗獷的水手,她活潑、勇敢的戰(zhàn)士,她熱切、不敗的

32、商人和她鎮(zhèn)定的官員,還有她頑固的進取精神,這種精神使英國在四面八方都有她的殖民地,使英國出自本性地擔負起她應擔的責任。ButtoOxfordsetthecurrentsofwhatmaybecalledintellectualemotion,theidealsthatmaynotmakeforimmediatenationalgreatness,butwhich,ifdelicatelyandfaithfullynurtured,holdoutatleastahopeofaffectingtheintellectualandspirituallifeoftheworld.Thereissome

33、thingaboutOxfordwhichisnotintheleasttypicalofEngland,buttypicalofthelargerbrotherhoodthatisindependentofnationalities;thatisakintothespiritwhichinanylandandineveryagehasproducedimperishablemonumentsoftheardenthumansoul.ThetribeofOxfordisthetribefromwhoseheartsprangthePsalmsofDavid;HomerandSophocles,PlatoandVirgil,

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