大提花織物工藝技術(shù)及專業(yè)英文術(shù)語

則幾百根，多則數(shù)千根。AlsoknownastheJacquardfabricfabric,largepatterniswoveninJacquardtissue,itswarpfullpatternsorganizationsislessthenhundredsofroots,manythousandsofroots.大提花多以一種組織為根底〔地組織不同的纖維種類、紗線支數(shù)和不同的經(jīng)緯密，制成各種風(fēng)格的提花織物。Jacquardbasedonanorganization(organizations),andanotheroranumberofdifferentorganizationsappearedintheirpatterns,suchasplain,satinflower.Sometimesmayalsomakeuseofdifferentcoloryarnandweft,sothatthefabriccolorpatterns.Canbeequippedwithdifferentfibertypes,anddifferentweftyarncount,madeofJacquardfabricofvariousstyles.大提花組織的應(yīng)用甚為廣泛，如用于床上用品、窗簾、毛毯、工藝圖等紡織品中。Jacquardiswidelyused,suchasbedding,curtains,rugs,artworkandothertextilesDifferencebetweenjacquardandDobby花是由多臂織機(jī)織制的小花紡組織的棉織物，或稱小花紋織物，多臂提花織物Simplysays,basically,isaroundnumberofwarpJacquardfabriccanbeuptohundredsofroots,neededJiaKaqiangwoven.dobbyloomsarelittleJacquardwovenflowerswovencottonfabricoftheOrganization,orsmallfabric,DobbyJacquardfabricJacquardaboutproductionprocess制作流程工廠依據(jù)客戶的來樣或彩稿+織物的規(guī)格，讓專業(yè)制作大提花紋板及上機(jī)工藝的加工廠設(shè)計出工藝、做出紋板。然后依據(jù)工藝投料、染色〔色織、做經(jīng)軸〔可能是2個或3個、調(diào)整〔在織機(jī)上穿、裝紋板、調(diào)上機(jī)緯密、試車對花形后整理、熟修、打包出廠。Factoryaccordingtocustomer”ssampleorcolorversion+fabricspecifications,professionalproductionofJacquardfactorydesignprocesses,andthetechnologyofplate.Thenaccordingtothematerial,dye(yarn),beam(maybe2or3),adjustlonghooks,hangTongSI,wear(woreattheloom),mountedontheplate,adjustingmachineweft,commissioningofflower-shaped,open,fabricrepair,finishing,cooked,packingfactory.大提花的提花原理，大提花織物與小提花織物生產(chǎn)上不同處有兩點，一是大提花不用棕框，而用龍頭+通絲+目板+棕絲的比較簡單的組合；二是大提花的紋板簾一般很長，在一個提花NN塊紋板，要有特地的支架用來掛紋板簾，穿聯(lián)紋板有講究，哪的支架一般和提花龍頭一起安排在織機(jī)的上方。BigJacquardofJacquardprinciple,bigJacquardfabricandsmallJacquardfabricproductionShangdifferentathastwopoints,aisbigJacquardwithoutbrownbox,andwithleading+passsilk+accountsBoard+Brownsilkofcomparedcomplexofcombination;IIisbigJacquardoflinesBoardcurtainGeneralislong,inaJacquardbackbitinthehasnrootweftonhavedistributionnblocklinesBoard,tohasspecificallyofbracketusedtohanginglinesBoardcurtain,wearjointlinesBoardhasabout,whichblocklinesuprightoppositemistakeoraroundtwoadjustablehasbit,willweavingwrongspentshaped,lookingforrowwrongoflinesBoardalsoistrouble,HangingplatecurtainbracketsandarrangementswithJacquardLoomabove.小提花紋板上一般最多24個紋孔，分別用來掌握棕框升降和選緯，一塊大提花紋板會有幾多，超過龍鉤的承重力量，可以考慮多幾只鉤分擔(dān)，很多狀況下整幅布中的花數(shù)。它們的信息傳輸過程是紋板---紋針---龍鉤---通絲---綜絲---經(jīng)紗。SmallmentionpatternBoardShangGeneralup24alineshole,respectivelyusedtocontrolbrownboxliftingandselectedlatitude,abigmentionpatternBoardwillhasthousandsofalineshole,theyandJacquardmachineleadingoflinesneedlenumberrelativeshould,eachholebitalignmentarootlinesneedle,totheholebitwhetherplayingholetocontrolwhethermentionBrown,alinesholecontrolnumberrootwarpofmovement,thesewarprespectivelyispasssiteoiloncanvasintheeachflowerspentintheofarootorseveralroot,principlesismovementtracksameofwarpcanthroughtheirofpasssilkhanginginadragonhookShang,ifrootnumbertoomuch,Overlonghooksoftheload-carryingcapacity,youcanconsiderafewmorehookstoshare,inmanycases,hangingonahookpassnumberisthenumberofwholeclothflowers.Theirprocessofinformationtransmissioniscard---longhook,clip---------passwirehealds---warp.機(jī)的十倍或更多。AdvancedcomputerizedJacquardJacquardmachine,cansavetheproductionplateandarrangeapileofcardoperationtrouble.Fromdesigntosignificantlyreducethedrivingtime,easytomodify,efficiencyhasbeengreatlyimproved,buttheequipmentismuchhigher,oftenisacommonfactorof10timesormore.有星跳。假設(shè)嚴(yán)峻，無法織造，或織造效率很低，還伴有很多的疵病。BigJacquardfabricandGeneralfabricas,onlydohaslimitsofyarnsupportanddensity,andnotallspenttypearecanmention,becauseisbigJacquard,warphasmanyspeciesdifferentofweavingmadestructure,maywillhasdifferentofweavingmadeelasticdegrees,thatweavingmadeprocessintheproducedwarptensionnotarephenomenon,iftensionnotareminor,canproduction,oiloncanvassomenotcalmofphenomenon,oreasyhasstarjumped.Ifyouareserious,notweaving,weavingefficiencyisverylow,stillwithalotofflaws.分塊面的大小、花在布面上分布是否均勻。ThisrequiresthedesignofJacquardprocesstakefullyintoaccounttheproductionfeasibilityof,mainlytoseewhatareitsflowerandtheDepartmentorganized,jacquardonthepartofthefaceofoursize,inoiloncanvasisevenlydistributed.工廠的工藝人員會依據(jù)這些因素估量一個品種的生產(chǎn)難度，供業(yè)務(wù)部門報價和接單時參考，遇到生產(chǎn)難度太大的品種，工廠多會放棄。Planttechnologywillbebasedonthesefactorsisestimatedavarietyofproductiondifficulties,referencesforthequotesandordersthebusinesssector,metproductiontoodifficultvariety,thefactorywillgiveup.比較常見的提花方法是花與地分別做正反組織，或相近組織，如直貢地橫貢花，3/1地1/3花，3/12/2花，2/11/2花，或花、地組織相調(diào)換。遇到花部與地部組織構(gòu)造松緊不安排在同一經(jīng)軸上，分別牽不同長度的經(jīng)紗。MorecommonmethodsofJacquardistheflowerandtheprosandconsdoorganizationseparately,orsimilarorganization,suchasadirecttributetoHengGongHua,3/11/3flower3/12/2flowers,1/2flowersin2/1,orflowers,tissuereplacement.ExperiencingtightnessnotflowerandtheorganizationalstructureoftheDepartment,suchasplainandJacquardfabrics,preferablyline-shapedpatternanduniformlydistributedintheclothcover,trytomakeeverywarpthroughinterwovenpointsofthesameorsimilar.Ifyoucannotdothis,considerdoubleorthreeaxes,similartensionofthewarpatthesameshaft,eachholdingadifferentlengthofthewarp.制作工藝大提花機(jī)依據(jù)紋針數(shù)不同一般分為140018002240240028003700針，24001400針為最常見，紋針數(shù)高，更簡潔做大花形，2400針機(jī)根本能適應(yīng)大局部服裝用大提花面料，花形的經(jīng)向尺寸大小，跟面料的緯密、紋板塊數(shù)的多少有關(guān)系，一般情形，花形經(jīng)向回位的大小不受限制，就看機(jī)上可否放置足夠的紋板。MakingprocessbigJacquardmachineaccordingtolinesneedlenumberdifferentGeneralisdividedinto1400needle,and1800needle,and2240needle,and2400needle,and2800needle,and3700needle,andsoon,to2400needleand1400needleformostcommon,linesneedlenumberhigh,moreeasybigspentshaped,2400needlemachineBasiccanadaptedmostclothingwithbigJacquardfabric,spentshapedofbytosizesize,withfabricoflatitudekey,andlinesplatenumberofhowmanyhasrelationship,generalcase,spentshapedbytobackbitofsizenotbylimit,Machinewillputenoughontheplate.緯向回位更介意。如有大提花面料規(guī)格是50X50，144X80，花形是立著的橢圓，經(jīng)緯向回位2400針提花機(jī)做，它的緯向回位最大尺寸可以計算出來是：2400X2/144=3333吋，假設(shè)花形不是橢圓，而是一個不規(guī)章的16.5Latitudetospendtimewithfabricsofwarpdensityandthenumberofpaperclips,iforganizationsdidnotrepeatatakebackallthewarp,warpuptotherootofthisfloweristhenumberofpaperclips,combinedwiththewarpdensityfabric,youcanknowthattheflowercandotoamaximumwidth,sothefactoryforWeitoreturnwithmorecare.AshasbigJacquardfabricspecificationsis50X50,144X80,spentshapedisStatewithofoval,longitudetobackbitrespectivelyisovaloflengthdiameter,ifwith2400needleJacquardmachinedo,itoflatitudetobackbitmaximumsizecancalculationoutis:2400X2/144=33inches,descriptionspentshapedovalmostwidedo33inches,ifspentshapednotoval,butanotrulesofshape,thisspentshapedonlydo16.5incheswide.Dobby,thefabricsurfaceusingtwokindsofchangesormorekindsoftissuestoformpatternsoforganization,calledDobby.SmallJacquardtoplainfortheorganization.SmallJacquardfabricwithJacquardfabricpatternisevenmoresubtleanddelicate,isalsocommonlyusedinhigh-endbedding,curtainsandothersupplies.小提花織機(jī)是用多臂來掌握綜框的升降的1616種經(jīng)絲的運動規(guī)律可以掌握。織出來的花型比較小，假設(shè)要織大點的花型只有通過放大穿綜和起綜的循環(huán)來實現(xiàn).進(jìn)口的24片綜框。但這是很少見的,1620片的。DobbyDobbyloomisusedtocontrolframeliftthrougharmbladesontheframedependsontheliftingofthemovement,GeneralDobbycanonlycontrol16healdframes,thatis,only16kindsofmovementcanbecontrolled.Wovenpatternissmall,ifyouwanttoweavelargefloweronlybyzoominginthroughcomprehensiveandintegratedlooptoachieve.importsofJacquardweavingmachinethatcancontrolupto24frame.Butthisisveryrare,commonis16and20films.大提花織機(jī)是通過紋針來掌握經(jīng)絲的上下運動規(guī)律的，一般1400號提花機(jī)的有用紋針14801480種經(jīng)絲的運動規(guī)律可以掌握，這就大大增加了花形的面積。JacquardLoomiscontrolledthroughtheclipupanddownbylaw,practicalclip14801400thJacquardneedle,whichmeansthereare1480warpmovementcanbecontrolled,whichgreatlyincreasedtheflower-shapedarea.制。小提花是由多臂織機(jī)織制的小花紡組織的棉織物，或稱小花紋織物，多臂提花織物。Simplysays,basically,isaroundnumberofwarpJacquardfabriccanbeuptohundredsofroots,neededJiaKaqiangweavingbusiness.DobbyloomsarelittleJacquardwovenflowerswovencottonfabricoftheOrganization,orsmallfabric,DobbyJacquardfabric.提花面料鑒別方法：開口機(jī)構(gòu)的類型：Cranktype:1、電子多臂：織造小提花面料，一般由電磁吸鐵接收工控機(jī)指令通電，掌握棕框升降。ElectronicDobby:weavingJacquardfabrics,GeneralIPCinstructionsreceivedbytheelectromagneticironhaspowercontrolbrownboxlift.2、電子大提花龍頭：織造大提花面料，由電子紋針接收工控機(jī)指令掌握每一個通絲的升降。一般多臂織機(jī)的綜框在16到20片，大提花龍頭最常見的是2640針。ElectronicJacquard:wovenjacquardfabric,controlledbyanelectronicclipreceivesIPCinstructionseachharnesscordlift.GeneralDobbyloomframein16to20slices,largeJacquard2640 -PINisthemostcommon.穿綜撈頭：Throughcomprehensivefishing:1、多臂穿綜，織物構(gòu)造里講穿綜原則：把浮沉交織規(guī)律一樣的經(jīng)紗一般穿入同一DobbywearingHeald,speaktowearfabricstructureintegratedprinciples:interweavingthesameupsanddownsofwarpgenerallyintegratedintothesamecanalsobeputintodifferentcomprehensive,whichdifferentwoven-Warpmustbewornatdifferentcomprehensive.Draftingplantodrawatleastonewearingfullycycling.2、電子大提花撈頭都是從左至右依次撈頭。以上是大、小提花生產(chǎn)過程中根本狀況ElectronicJacquardfishheadsfishheadsinturnfromlefttoright.Aboveisgreat,basicconditionsofDobbyintheproductionprocess,inordertohelpunderstanding.接下來是推斷方法：一，推斷織物經(jīng)、緯向；二，找出一個完整的緯向循環(huán)；三，找出一個完整循環(huán)內(nèi)有多少根不同運動的經(jīng)紗根數(shù)；Todeterminefabricwarpandweft; Second,findafullzonalcirculation;Third,findouthowmanydifferentsportsinonecompletecyclethewarp;四，一般狀況下不同運動經(jīng)紗根數(shù)在20根以下是小提花，20根以上是大提花以上配置了16片綜框，那么織造不同運動經(jīng)紗根數(shù)的織物就得用大提花機(jī)織來織造，同時還得2020以依據(jù)自己的實際狀況來分析、推斷。GeneralsituationXiadifferentmovementwarprootnumberin20rootfollowingissmallJacquard,20rootaboveisbigJacquardabovejustpreliminaryjudge,actualprocessinthe,alsotofundamentalcompanyequipmentconfigurationsituationtoanalysis,likeacompanymorearmmachineweavingupconfigurationhas16tabletsfullybox,soweavingmadedifferentmovementwarprootnumberoffabriconhavewithbigJacquardmachineweavingtoweavingmade,whilealsohaveconsidertoeachtabletsfullytabletsoffullysilkdensity,becauseeachtabletsfullyfullysilkdensityhadAssemblyledtolifebaddo,problem.Suchaswarppreliminaryjudgingin20differentsports,thecompanyequippedwith20heddleDobbyloom,fabricwarpdensityistoolargecausingeachheddleheddledensityistoolarge,atthistime,toconsiderontheJacquardLoomweaves.Inpractice,whetherit”sdesignorsalescanbedoneaccordingtotheactualsituationanalysisandjudgment.提花織物的原料設(shè)計：原料是紡織品設(shè)計的重要考慮因素它與產(chǎn)品性能本錢有很大關(guān)系。傳統(tǒng)上，軟家具裝飾織物所用纖維原料以短纖維為主，有棉紗、毛紗、純滌綸紗、滌棉、滌粘混紡紗等。隨著合成纖維，尤其是合成纖維變形絲的進(jìn)展變形絲在軟家具用織物中得到了大量的應(yīng)用。目前應(yīng)用較多的有滌綸網(wǎng)絡(luò)絲、滌綸DTY絲、黏膠絲、丙綸FDY絲丙綸BCF絲等這些紗線強(qiáng)力較強(qiáng)防霉抗蛀可做經(jīng)紗或緯線也可以與棉紗毛紗、粘膠紗等緯線進(jìn)展交織以彌補(bǔ)其手感吸濕性舒適性較差的缺陷。 原〔緯向原料：全棉、滌棉、滌綸、黏膠、天絲、真絲、七彩絲、網(wǎng)絡(luò)絲、彈絲等〕 〔經(jīng)向原料：全棉、滌綸、天絲、真絲、低彈絲等等〕 高支高密絲光純棉面料：純自然纖維、手感豐滿、挺括、光滑松軟，厚實細(xì)膩，與肌膚接觸污任何刺激感，吸濕性、透氣性好，無靜電產(chǎn)生，對人體有益無害。外觀感覺高檔、豪華 絲綿面料：高支純棉與蠶絲交織而成；純天然纖維，手感松軟、飽滿、光滑、細(xì)膩、光亮、與肌膚接觸舒適、無任何刺激感，各種性能優(yōu)于純棉外觀高檔華貴豪華絲綿面料中的自然蠶絲中有消退皮膚黑色治療皮膚病、使皮膚變美的成效?，F(xiàn)代醫(yī)學(xué)證明自然蠶絲所含的特別絲膠SERICIN成分，具有抗過敏、親膚性等保護(hù)作用因蠶絲是一種多孔纖維所以保暖干爽透氣性特好MaterialdesignofJacquard fabric: raw materials are important considerations for textile design, productperformance,costandithasmuchtodo.Traditionally,thesoftupholsteryfabricmaterialwithshortfiberswithfiber,cottonyarn,woolyarn,polyesteryarn,polyester/cotton,polyesterandviscoseblendedyarn.Withsyntheticfibres,especiallythedevelopmentofsynthetictextured