Fiber,YarnandFabric

1、FIBER, YARN AND FABRICFIBER, YARN AND FABRIC - General Introduction - General Introduction WHAT IS A FIBER?All textiles are made up of fibers.Properties:High length to diameter ration, fineness and flexibilityA certain level of strengthExtensibility and elasticityResistance to chemicals, heat and su

2、nlightAbility to be coloredCOTTONkidney-bean shaped with a lumenthe twists reverse in direction along the lengthThe most outer layer of the cotton fibre is the cuticle covered with waxes and pectins and this surrounds a primary wall, built of cellulose, pectins and proteinic material.BAST AND LEAF F

3、IBERSramieflaxlinenjuteHEMPlongitudinal sectioncross sectionWOOLThe finer the wool, the more the crimp.Wool fibres are roughly oval in cross-section and grow in a more or less wary form with a certain amount of twist. The finer the wool, the more the crimp.Keratin is a complex protein and is amphote

4、ric in nature. so wool can be dyed with acid or reactive dyes.羊毛纖維的橫切面近似橢圓形，生長過程中形成或多羊毛纖維的橫切面近似橢圓形，生長過程中形成或多或少的卷曲，帶一定捻度，越細(xì)越卷曲。同時(shí)，羊毛或少的卷曲，帶一定捻度，越細(xì)越卷曲。同時(shí)，羊毛的質(zhì)量越高，卷曲度越高。的質(zhì)量越高，卷曲度越高。SILKsilkwormmothcocoonSILK PROPERTIESLength: 1000-1300 yds (915-1190 m)/cocoon Max 3000yds (2750m)/cocoon, 1 fiber/cocoon.

5、Fineness：2.8-3.9dtex (Bombyx mori)Absorbency: 8-9%(High heat of wetting)Medium tenacity but higher than woolHigh luster high crystallinity and triangular cross-sectional shape.drapabilityScroop(絲鳴): rustling sound due to an acid treatment that hardens fiber surface.Lowest UV light resistance: avoid

6、prolonged exposure to sunshineIn order to prevent silk yarn from breaking up in weaving process, the silk filaments are usually produced in the form of yarn by combining reeled strands from several cocoons together by giving a certain twist to hold them and the gum existing on silk helps to hold the

7、 strands together. The degree of crystallinity of silk is about 65%-70%. The degree of polymerization of silk fibroin is uncertain, with DP of 300 to 3000 having been measured in different solvents.為了防止蠶絲在織布過程中斷裂，蠶絲通常以紗的形式生產(chǎn)，即幾個(gè)蠶繭的單絲通過給予一定的捻度而結(jié)合在一起，并通過絲上保留的膠質(zhì)物使這些單絲結(jié)合在一起。REGENERATED FIBERSViscose ray

8、on is produced in common by the so-called wet-spinning process through which cellulose is firstly altered from particle or chip shape into a liquid form, and then into filament.The pure cellulose obtained from cotton linters is usually processed into the form of thin sheet; however, one from wood ex

9、ists often in the form of wood pulp.粘膠纖維通常由濕紡工藝生產(chǎn)。 在濕紡工藝中纖維素首先由顆粒或片狀變成液態(tài)，然后加工成長絲。從棉短絨獲得的純纖維素通常被加工成薄片狀，而從木頭中獲得的純纖維素則常以木漿的形式出現(xiàn)。Their strength and other physical properties can also be improved by the use of modifiers such as various amines or polyglycol or by changing the process parameter of drawing

10、that orientates the cellulose molecules along the filament axis and increase the strength of the filament.The resulted cellulose diacetate flakes are then dissolved in acetone containing 4% water as the solvent to form the spinning dope, which is filtered and then forced through spinnerette into a w

11、arm-air chamber and the method of spinning is called dry-spinning.通過使用各種氨、聚乙二醇化合物等改性劑，或改變拉伸工藝參數(shù)調(diào)整纖維素分子沿絲軸的取向，粘膠纖維的強(qiáng)力及其他物理性能都能得到提高。最后，將纖維素二醋酸酯薄片溶解于含水4%的丙酮溶劑中形成紡絲漿液，過濾，并通過紡絲頭將絲壓入熱空氣室，這種紡絲方法叫干法紡絲。SYNTHETIC FIBERSPolyester fiber is now the largest man-made fibre in terms of volume of production. （產(chǎn)量）The

12、 acrylic fibres process a very pleasing, warm and soft handle. Fabrics made from it exhibit a silk-like luster, hand and drape.Nylon has a lower specific gravity than other fibres. These properties make them very suitable for stockings, parachute fabrics, shirts, underwear, carpet and reinforcement of rubber in tyres and belts. Polyester staple is very commonly blended with cotton or other cellulosic fibres in shirts,