中國(guó)傳統(tǒng)服飾-英文PPT

ChineseTraditionalClothingSpeaker:Cynthia,Rinei,Daisy,JennyChineseCostumesTheChinesecostume,whichhasover5,000years’history,isjustlikealongriver.Andtodaywe’llpresenttheminthreeparts,HanDynasty,TangDynastyandQingDynasty.Part1HanFuPart2CostumeinTangDynastyPart3CheongsamHanFuHanfuisalsoknownasHanzhuangorHuafu，isthetraditionaldressoftheHanChinesepeople.ThetermHanfuderivesfromtheBookofHan,whichsays,"thenmanycametotheCourttopayhomageandweredelightedattheclothingstyleoftheHan."（后數(shù)來朝賀，樂漢衣服制度）StandardstylehistorySpecificstylebodyHistoryHanfuhasahistoryofmorethanthreemillennia,andissaidtohavebeenwornbythelegendaryYellowEmperor.Fromthebeginningofitshistory,Hanfu(especiallyinelitecircles)wasinseparablefromsilk,supposedlydiscoveredbytheYellowEmperor’sconsort,Leizu.

TheShangDynastydevelopedtherudimentsofHanfu;itconsistedofayi,andchang,wornwithabixi,.Vividprimarycolorsandgreenwereused,duetothedegreeoftechnologyatthetime.theWesternZhouDynasty，theHanfubecamelooser,withtheintroductionofwidesleevesandjadedecorationshungfromthesashwhichservedtokeeptheyiclosed.Theyiwasessentiallywrappedover,inastyleknownasjiaolingyouren,orwrappingtherightsideoverbeforetheleftIntheEasternZhouDynasty，the“deeprobe”(shenyi深衣)appearedacombinationoftunic（束腰外衣）andskirt.Theupperandlowerhalveswerecutseparatelybutsewnasasingleunit.Anadditionalchangewastheshapingoftheleftsideofthecostumeintoacorner,fastenedonthechest.SinceSongandYuan,officialrecordusedHanfutoindicategarmentsHanswearDuringLiaodynasty,theemperorofLiaoandHanofficialswearHanfu,andEmpressandKhitan（契丹）officialsweartheirnationalclothing.DuringYuandynasty,wheneditingHistoryofLiao,theofficialsespeciallymadeanentryforHanfuTheterm"Hanfu"todescribetheclothingsystemofHans,wasnotoftenusedwithinHans,butwasmoreoftenusedinotherethnicgroupsandnations,todistinguishtheHansclothingsystemandtheirownclothingsystemStandardstyleHatandheaddressInformaldressSemi-formalFormaldressCourtdressHatandheadwear--garmentThestyleofHanChineseclothingcanbesummarizedascontaininggarmentelementsthatarearrangedindistinctiveandsometimesspecificways.ThismaybedifferentfromthetraditionalgarmentofotherethnicgroupsinChina,mostnotablytheManchu-influencedChineseclothes,theqipao,whichispopularlyassumedtobethesolelyrecognizablestyleof"traditional"Chinesegarb.AcomparisonofthetwostylescanbeseenasthefollowingprovidesYi(衣):Anyopencross-collargarment,andwornbybothsexesPao(袍):Anyclosedfull-bodygarment,wornonlybymeninHanfuRu(襦):Opencross-collarshirtShan(衫):Opencross-collarshirtorjacketthatiswornovertheyiQun(裙)orchang(裳):SkirtforwomenandmenKu(褲):TrousersorpantsOntopofthegarments,hats(formen)orhairpieces(forwomen)maybeworn.Onecanoftentelltheprofessionorsocialrankofsomeonebywhattheywearontheirheads.Thetypicaltypesofmaleheadweararecalledjin(巾)forsoftcaps,mao(帽)forastiffhatsandguan(冠)forformalheaddress.Officialsandacademicshaveaseparatesetofhatsforthem,typicallytheputou(幞頭),thewushamao(烏紗帽),thesi-fangpingdingjin(四方平定巾;orsimply,fangjin:方巾)andtheZhuangzijin(莊子巾).Atypicalhairpieceforwomenisaji(笄)buttherearemoreelaboratehairpieces.InformaldressTypesincludetops(yi)andbottoms(dividedfurtherintopantsandskirtsforbothgenders,withterminologieschangorqun),andone-piecerobesthatwraparoundthebodyonceorseveraltimes(shenyi).AtypicalsetofHanfucanconsistoftwoorthreelayersThefirstlayerofclothingismostlythezhongyi(中衣)whichistypicallytheinnergarmentmuchlikeaWesternT-shirtandpants.Thenextlayeristhemainlayerofclothingwhichismostlyclosedatthefront.Therecanbeanoptionalthirdlayerwhichisoftenanovercoatcalledazhaoshanwhichisopenatthefront.Semi-formaldress

ApieceofHanfucanbe"madesemi-formal"bytheadditionofthefollowingappropriateitems:chang(裳):apleatedskirt

bixi(蔽膝):longfrontclothpanelattached fromthewaistbelt

zhaoshan(罩衫):longopenfrontedcoat

guan(冠)oranyformalhatsFormaldressXuanduan(玄端):averyformaldarkrobe;equivalenttotheWesternwhitetieShenyi(深衣):alongfullbodygarment

(曲裾):diagonalbodywrapping

(直裾):straightlapelsYuanlingshan(圓領(lǐng)衫),lanshan(襴衫)orpanlingpao(盤領(lǐng)袍):closed,round-collaredrobe;mostlyusedforofficialoracademicaldressCourtdressCourtdressisthedresswornatveryformaloccasionsandceremoniesthatareinthepresenceofamonarch(suchasanenthronementceremony).Theentireensembleofclothingcanconsistofmanycomplexlayersandlookveryelaborate.Courtdressissimilartothexuanduanincomponentsbuthaveadditionaladornmentsandelaborateheadwear.Theyareoftenbrightlycoloredwithvermillionandblue.Therearevariousversionsofcourtdressthatarewornforcertainoccasions.SpecificStyleHistorically,HanClothinghasinfluencedmanyofitsneighbouringculturalcostumes,suchasJapanese

kimono,yukata,Korean

HanbokandtheVietnamese

áot?than.ElementsofHanfuhavealsobeeninfluencedbyneighbouringculturalcostumes,especiallybythenomadicpeoplestothenorth,andCentralAsianculturestothewestbywayoftheSilkRoad.Costume

inTangDynasty

1、ThebriefintroductionofcostumeinTangdynasty2、ThefeaturesofcostumeinTangdynasty3、HowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing?BriefIntroductionTheclothingmaterialswereexquisite（精美的）Thestructurewasnatural,gracefulandelegantAdornmentsweresplendidComplimentedbyelaboratehairstyle,ornamentsandfacemakeupThegeneralfeaturesofwomen’scostumeinTangdynasty：1)topless（上空裝，袒胸裝）2）exposedarm3）oblique(斜的）collar4）largesleeves5）longskirtdressAllofthesemakeitdeservethemosttypicalopenclothingstyle.Theclothingmaterialsareexquisite,thestructureisnatural,gracefulandelegant,andadornmentsaresplendid.Thisisthefamouspicture《簪花侍女圖》showingaladystrollinginthecourtTheladywaswearingaleno-madeuppergarment,high-waistskirtandwithoutunderdress.Thiswascalled“topless”（上空裝，袒胸裝）Mindedness:theopen-mindedstate“綺羅纖縷見肌膚”“蟬翼羅衣白玉人

”

Theopenclothingstyleanditssoftnessandlightnessmakethewomen’scostumeinTangdynastysouniqueanddistinctive.

TheTangwomendressedinsetsofgarments,andeachsetauniqueimageinitself.

Ingeneral,theTangwomen'sdresses

canbe

classifiedintothreecategories:

（1）ThetraditionalruqunordoublelayeredorpaddedshortjacketthatistypicalofcentralChinaPattern—襦裙(Ruqun)Ruqun（襦裙）iswornbywomen.

Whenitscollarlikestheletter“y”,wecancalledit“交領(lǐng)襦裙”.Ifitscollarlikesthenumber“11”,wecancalledit“對(duì)襟襦裙”.

Whentheyareclassifiedbyitsheightoftheskirt，wecancalledthem“齊腰襦裙”——Whichwaistbandisonthewaist.Or“齊胸襦裙”——Whichwaistbandisabovethechest.（2）thehufu,oraliendressthatcamefromtheSilkRoad;（3）Cross-Dressing(namely,girlsdressedasboys)，thefullsetofmalegarmentsthatbrokethetraditionoftheConfucianformalities拘謹(jǐn),禮節(jié).

AfterthereignofTangEmperorGaozong,purplewasusedasthegarmentcolorforofficialsabovethethirdgrade;lightred,officialsabovethefifthgrade;darkgreen.officialsabovethesixthgrade;lightgreen,officialsabovetheseventhgrade;darkcyan,officialsabovetheeighthgrade;lightcyan,officialsabovetheninthgrade;andyellow,ordinarypeopleandthosewhodidnotliveinthepalace.

HowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing?First,inChinesehistory,theTangDynasty(AD618-907)wasaperiodofunityandprosperitywhenthepolityandeconomywerehighlydeveloped.MaterialisticabundanceandarelativelyrelaxedsocialatmospheregavetheTangDynastyanunprecedentedopportunitytodevelopculturally,reachingitsheightinpoetry,painting,musicanddance.Second,Basedontheprogressmadeinsilkreelinganddyeingtechniques,thevariety,qualityandquantityoftextilematerialsreachedanunprecedentedheight.

Thestructureisnatural,gracefulandelegant,andadornmentsaresplendid.

Asanimportantculturalelement,woman’scostumeinvariousformsintheTangDynastywellillustratestheopen-mindednessandaffluenceduringthatperiod.Third,TheTanggovernmentwastolerant,andoftenappreciativeofreligions,artandculturefromtheoutsideworld.ThoughtheformsofgarmentswerestillthecontinuationoftheHanDynasty(206BC-220AD)andtheSuiDynasty(581-618),theyhavedistinctivestylesbyitselfbeinginfluencedbyculturesandartsoftheWesternRegions.

Willyouacceptyourgirlfriends/yourselvesdressingveryopen?CheongsamOriginDevelopmentOrigin——nameThe

namecheongsammeaningsimplylongdressenteredtheEnglishvocabularyfromthedialectofChina'sGuangdongProvince.

InotherpartsofthecountryincludingBeijing,however,itisknownas"qipao",whichhasahistorybehindit.●QingDynasty(1644),Manchu,BannerPeople(qiren).●1645Shunzhi,“TifaYifu”Policy(剃發(fā)易服)thenext300years,becameadoptedbytheChinese.●Survivedthepoliticalturmoilofthe1911XinhaiRevolutiontoppledtheQingDynasty.Thehistoryof

cheongsam

Thedetailsofcheongsam●shirtisnotexposed(衫不露外)●theright-sidelapel[l?'pel]

ofjunction[?d???k??n]

decoratedwithbuttons(偏襟右衽以盤紐為飾)●clothingplusclothing(衣外加衣)●increasewaistcoat['we?sk??t]

orjacket(增加坎肩或馬褂)●clothesdonotgetthewaistdown(衣服上下不取腰身)●Rectangularoutline(外輪廓呈長(zhǎng)方形)●Horseshoe-shapedsleevecoverhand(馬蹄袖蓋手)●setrollingcraftdecoration(鑲滾工藝裝飾)●flowerpotshoes(花盆鞋)

Frog盤扣Openings衩Embroidery[?m'br??d?r?]

刺繡Frontofagarment襟Development

From1914to19491930~1940，Peakperiod

western-stylecuttingmethod