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1、2021/8/221Han Fu2021/8/222 HanfuHanfu is also known as HanzhuangHanzhuang or HuafuHuafu ,is the traditional dress of the Han Chinese people. The term Hanfu derives from the Book of Han, which says, then many came to the Court to pay homage and were delighted at the clothing style of the Han. (后數(shù)來(lái)朝賀,

2、樂(lè)漢衣服制度)2021/8/223Standard stylehistorySpecific styleGallerybody2021/8/224History Hanfu has a history of more than three millennia, and is said to have been worn by the legendary Yellow Emperor. From the beginning of its history, Hanfu (especially in elite circles) was inseparable from silk, supposed

3、ly discovered by the Yellow Emperors consort, Leizu.2021/8/225 The Shang Dynasty developed the rudiments of Hanfu; it consisted of a yi, and chang, worn with a bixi,. Vivid primary colors and green were used, due to the degree of technology at the time.2021/8/226 the Western Zhou Dynasty, the Hanfu

4、became looser, with the introduction of wide sleeves and jade decorations hung from the sash which served to keep the yi closed. The yi was essentially wrapped over, in a style known as jiaoling youren, or wrapping the right side over before the left2021/8/227 In the Eastern Zhou Dynasty, the “deep

5、robe” (shenyi 深衣) appeared a combination of tunic(束腰外衣) and skirt. The upper and lower halves were cut separately but sewn as a single unit. An additional change was the shaping of the left side of the costume into a corner, fastened on the chest.2021/8/228women2021/8/229men2021/8/22102021/8/2211 Si

6、nce Song and Yuan, official record used Hanfu to indicate garments Hans wear During Liao dynasty, the emperor of Liao and Han officials wear Hanfu, and Empress and Khitan(契丹) officials wear their national clothing. During Yuan dynasty, when editing History of Liao, the officials especially made an e

7、ntry for Hanfu2021/8/2212 The term Hanfu to describe the clothing system of Hans, was not often used within Hans, but was more often used in other ethnic groups and nations, to distinguish the Hans clothing system and their own clothing system2021/8/2213Standard styleHat and head dressInformal dress

8、Semi-formalFormal dressCourt dress2021/8/2214Hat and headwear-garment The style of Han Chinese clothing can be summarized as containing garment elements that are arranged in distinctive and sometimes specific ways. This may be different from the traditional garment of other ethnic groups in China, m

9、ost notably the Manchu-influenced Chinese clothes, the qipao, which is popularly assumed to be the solely recognizable style of traditional Chinese garb. A comparison of the two styles can be seen as the following provides2021/8/2215 Yi (衣): Any open cross-collar garment, and worn by both sexes Pao

10、(袍): Any closed full-body garment, worn only by men in Hanfu Ru (襦): Open cross-collar shirt Shan (衫): Open cross-collar shirt or jacket that is worn over the yi Qun (裙) or chang (裳): Skirt for women and men Ku (褲): Trousers or pants2021/8/2216On top of the garments, hats (for men) or hairpieces (fo

11、r women) may be worn. One can often tell the profession or social rank of someone by what they wear on their heads. The typical types of male headwear are called jin (巾) for soft caps, mao (帽) for a stiff hats and guan (冠) for formal headdress. Officials and academics have a separate set of hats for

12、 them, typically the putou (幞頭), the wushamao (烏紗帽), the si-fang pingding jin (四方平定巾; or simply, fangjin: 方巾) and the Zhuangzi jin (莊子巾). A typical hairpiece for women is a ji (笄) but there are more elaborate hairpieces.2021/8/22172021/8/22182021/8/22192021/8/2220Informal dress Types include tops (y

13、i) and bottoms (divided further into pants and skirts for both genders, with terminologies chang or qun), and one-piece robes that wrap around the body once or several times (shenyi).2021/8/2221 (中衣) or zhongdan (中單): inner garments, mostly white cotton or silk (衫裙): a short coat with a long skirt R

14、uqun (襦裙): a top garment with a separate lower garment or skirt (褲褶): a short coat with trousers Zhiduo/zhishen (直裰/直身): a Ming Dynasty style robe, similar to a zhiju shenyi but with vents at the side and stitched sleeves (i.e. the sleeve cuff is closed save a small opening for the hand to go throug

15、h) Daopao/Fusha (道袍/彿裟): Taoist/Buddhist priests full dress ceremonial robes2021/8/2222 A typical set of Hanfu can consist of two or three layers The first layer of clothing is mostly the zhongyi (中衣) which is typically the inner garment much like a Western T-shirt and pants. The next layer is the m

16、ain layer of clothing which is mostly closed at the front. There can be an optional third layer which is often an overcoat called a zhaoshan which is open at the front. 2021/8/2223Semi-formal dress A piece of Hanfu can be made semi-formal by the addition of the following appropriate items: chang (裳)

17、: a pleated skirt bixi(蔽膝): long front cloth panel attached from the waist belt zhaoshan(罩衫): long open fronted coat guan(冠) or any formal hats2021/8/2224Formal dressXuanduan (玄端): a very formal dark robe; equivalent to the Western white tieShenyi (深衣): a long full body garment (曲裾): diagonal body w

18、rapping (直裾): straight lapelsYuanlingshan (圓領(lǐng)衫), lanshan (襴衫) or panlingpao (盤(pán)領(lǐng)袍): closed, round-collared robe; mostly used for official or academical dress2021/8/2225Court dressCourt dress is the dress worn at very formal occasions and ceremonies that are in the presence of a monarch (such as an enthronement ceremony). The entire ensemble of clothing can consist of many complex layers and look very elaborate. Court dress is similar to the xuanduan in components but have addit

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