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1、紡織染專業(yè)英語(yǔ),Lesson Sixteen Weaves and Variation in Woven Construction,REVIEW,1: what is the main aim of the changes in looms caused by the Industrial Revolution and mass production?,2: How many beams does the basic modern loom consist of ?,Text,三種基本的織物組織平紋、斜紋和緞紋可在普通織機(jī)上織造,不需要任何附屬設(shè)備。,The three basic weave

2、splain, twill and satincan be made on the simple loom without the use of any attachment.,平紋組織是三種基本組織中最簡(jiǎn)單的一種,它可用普通織機(jī)織造.,Plain weave is the simplest of the three basic weaves that can be made on a simple loom.,Plain weave,平紋組織只需要用雙綜框織機(jī),生產(chǎn)成本也最低.,It requires only a two-harness loom and is the least expe

3、nsive weave to produce.,Plain weave,在平紋組織中,每一根經(jīng)紗一上一下交替地與緯紗交織,每一根緯紗也一上一下交替地與經(jīng)紗交織.,In plain weave each filling yarn goes alternately over and then under one warp yarn.,Plain weave,The next yarn goes over and under the opposite yarns from the preceding one.,下一根紗交織的上下位置與前一根相反.,Plain weave,plain weave,薄型

4、織物用較細(xì)的紗制成,其經(jīng)緯密度低.,Sheer fabrics are made with fine yarns and low cloth count.,Plain weave,Fabrics that are strong, yet light in weight, may be with fine-combed or well-carded yarns and coarse yarn count.,堅(jiān)牢而質(zhì)量輕的織物可用精梳或粗梳得很好的紗或粗特紗制成.,Plain weave,Strong heavy fabrics may be made with large ply yarns c

5、ompactly woven.,堅(jiān)牢厚重織物則可用粗股線緊密交織制成.,Plain weave,Sheer fabrics: fine yarns 高支紗,較細(xì)的紗 low cloth count 經(jīng)緯密度低,Strong heavy fabrics: large ply yarns 粗股線,Fabrics that are strong, yet light in weight: fine-combed yarns 精梳紗 well-carded yarns (粗梳紗) coarse yarn count 粗特紗,由此,紗的種類和粗細(xì)以及織造時(shí)紗線的密度使平紋織物產(chǎn)生各種不同的質(zhì)地外觀.,T

6、hus variations in texture and appearance are given to plain weave fabrics by the type and fineness of yarn and the compactness with they are woven.,Plain weave,斜紋是第二種基本組織.,Twill is the second basic weave.,Twill Weave,twill weave,Twill Weave,斜紋組織可由織物交織點(diǎn)和浮點(diǎn)的排列所形成斜紋線來(lái)識(shí)別,有些織物的斜紋比另一些織物更明顯.,It is recogniz

7、ed by diagonal lines, in some fabrics more prominent than in others, formed across the fabric by arrangement of interlacings and floats.,Twill Weave,Twill Weave,It is extensively used in heavy and sturdy cotton fabrics.,這種組織廣泛應(yīng)用于重而結(jié)實(shí)的棉織品方面.,普通織機(jī)和多臂織機(jī)都可以用來(lái)織造正則斜紋和變則斜紋,而提花織機(jī)則用于織造各種大花紋斜紋織物.,In weaving t

8、wills, both plain and dobby looms are used for regular and irregular twills, and the jacquard loom is used for large-figure woven twills.,Twill Weave,figured twill weave 斜紋變化組織,Twill Weave,curved twill 曲線斜紋 shaded twill 陰影斜紋 crossed twill 蘆席斜紋 fancy twills 夾花斜紋 skip-twill 飛斜紋,combined twills 復(fù)合斜紋 an

9、gular twill 角度斜紋 angled twill 山形斜紋 broken twill 破斜紋 sawtooth twill 鋸齒斜紋 diamond twill 菱形斜紋,緞紋組織是斜紋組織的變形,有長(zhǎng)的浮紋和不清晰的交織點(diǎn),用于織造各種緞子、棉鍛等等.,Stain weaves are twill weave variations with long floats and indistinct interlacing and are used in weaving satin, sateen, etc.,Stain Weave,交織點(diǎn)的間距較大、浮點(diǎn)較長(zhǎng),使得這種織物非常光滑.,T

10、he wide spacing of the points of interlacing and the long floats give a very smooth texture.,Stain Weave,stain weave,Stain Weave,Stain Weave,stain weave,緞紋是棉織物,經(jīng)紗在面上的叫做經(jīng)面棉緞,緯紗在面上的叫做緯面棉緞.,Sateen are cotton fabrics, either warp-faced referred to as warp sateen, or filling-faced referred to as filling sateen.,Stain Weave,絲織緞是一些很光滑的經(jīng)面真絲、錦綸或再生纖維素纖維長(zhǎng)絲織物.,Stain Weave,Satins are very smooth, warp-faced silk, nylon, or filament rayon fabrics.,irregular satin weave 緞紋變化組織 stitiched sateen 加強(qiáng)緞紋 redouble satin 重緞紋 shaded satin

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