鉆石術(shù)語（Diamond terminology）

1、鉆石術(shù)語（Diamond terminology）AGSL：美國寶石協(xié)會(huì)實(shí)驗(yàn)室，美國權(quán)威的鉆石檢測(cè)機(jī)構(gòu)。AGTA：美國寶石貿(mào)易協(xié)會(huì)，美國珠寶協(xié)會(huì)。安特衛(wèi)普割安特衛(wèi)普切工安特衛(wèi)普鉆石工匠的手藝被公認(rèn)為是全世界最優(yōu)秀的，在安特衛(wèi)普，每天有上千名工人為獲得著名品質(zhì)標(biāo)記安特衛(wèi)普切，即”安特衛(wèi)普切工”而全力以赴。比利時(shí)還擁有為數(shù)眾多的鉆石設(shè)計(jì)師，并經(jīng)常舉行鉆石設(shè)計(jì)比賽，如兩年一次的鉆石高階層議會(huì)獎(jiǎng)大賽等，激勵(lì)著鉆石設(shè)計(jì)新作源源問世。方形切割asscher切割鉆石面包的形狀長(zhǎng)階梯形擁有階梯切割面的長(zhǎng)方形鉆石如較長(zhǎng)的兩邊漸漸收窄，則稱為尖階梯形錐形面包。酒吧設(shè)置棒鑲鉆石之間以金屬分隔，并由左右的金屬棒迫緊固

2、定。重子切割重子切割重子切割擁有傳統(tǒng)階梯切割冠部及改良明亮式切割亭部，除亭尖外，方形重子切割的鉆石共有62切面。須狀裂痕嵌接打磨過程中，可能出現(xiàn)的幼細(xì)裂痕較輕微的裂痕經(jīng)重新打磨，可被完全去除。擋板設(shè)置包鑲這一鑲嵌技術(shù)鉆石完全地為形似畫框的貴金屬邊緣所包圍。瑕疵表面瑕疵包括表面花痕及色點(diǎn)，拋光不當(dāng)所致的糊狀疤痕，表面很細(xì)的劃傷的痕跡等。華晨閃耀度光線在鉆石上全反射的白光強(qiáng)度。與切工比率以及對(duì)稱性密切相關(guān)。輝煌的切明亮式切割經(jīng)科學(xué)鑒定，明亮式切割反射最大部份光線，亦被譽(yù)為最閃爍及最具火采的切割方式。最普遍的明亮式切割圓形鉆石具有58個(gè)切面，還有其它形狀如心形、橢圓、欖尖形及梨形明亮式切割鉆石。擊痕

3、瘀傷鉆石受到外力撞擊留下的痕跡。克拉克拉克拉這個(gè)詞來源于一種叫作豆角的植物種子，在古代人們用它來測(cè)量重量，一克拉等于200mg，142克拉等于一盎司，克拉可進(jìn)一步劃分為100分等于1克拉，半克拉的鉆石也就是50分（大約100毫克）。腔空洞鉆石大而深的不規(guī)則破口。頻道設(shè)置槽鑲常用于鑲一排小的大小規(guī)則相同的寶石。這一鑲嵌技術(shù)用兩條金屬從兩邊夾持寶石。用來鑲圓形、狹長(zhǎng)方形和方形寶石槽鑲就象一條鐵軌，中間夾鉆石。特點(diǎn)鉆石的特征鉆石的天然生長(zhǎng)痕跡和人為造成的缺陷。凈度分級(jí)凈度分級(jí)每顆鉆石都含有天然的內(nèi)含物，猶如天然胎記，而這些內(nèi)含物的數(shù)量、大小、形狀、顏色則決定一顆鉆石的凈度及獨(dú)特性。故名思義，內(nèi)含物藏

4、在鉆石之內(nèi)，而且可呈不同顏色：白、黑、無色、甚至綠色或紅色。因此需在10倍放大鏡下，對(duì)鉆石內(nèi)部和外部的特征進(jìn)行等級(jí)劃分。解理破口鉆石腰部邊緣破損的小口。云云狀物鉆石中朦朧狀、乳狀、無清晰邊界的天然包裹體。群鑲?cè)杭O(shè)置主石被較小的伴石包圍，所以多顆較小的鉆石，可組合成更大更漂亮的戒指。顏色分級(jí)顏色分級(jí)采用比色法，在規(guī)定的環(huán)境下對(duì)鉆石顏色進(jìn)行等級(jí)劃分。水晶內(nèi)部紋理鉆石內(nèi)部的天然結(jié)晶面。冠冠部腰以上部分，有33個(gè)刻面。寬高比冠比例冠部高度相對(duì)于平均直徑的百分比，計(jì)算公式見下寬高比=冠部高度/平均直徑100%冠角冠部角冠部主刻面與腰部水平面的夾角。底面底尖（或底小面）亭部主刻面的交匯點(diǎn)，呈點(diǎn)壯或呈小八

5、邊形刻面。底尖比culet比例底尖直徑相對(duì)于平均直徑的百分比，計(jì)算公式見下底尖比=底尖直徑/平均直徑100%切工分級(jí)切工分級(jí)通過測(cè)量和觀察，從比率和修飾度兩個(gè)方面對(duì)鉆石加工工藝完美性進(jìn)行等級(jí)劃分。切割方法 Cutting Style切割方法與鉆石形狀有所不同.簡(jiǎn)單來說, 切割方法可分三種: 階梯切割、明亮式切割及混合切割.Cushion cut Diamond 長(zhǎng)角階梯切割Deep cut切割太深切工是指技師切割切面的角度及完成切割后鉆石各部份的比例.當(dāng)鉆石腰部以下比例太深, 光線會(huì)由底部或旁邊流走, 失卻光采.鉆石價(jià)值亦變得較低.Diamond鉆石是主要由碳元素組成的等軸 (立方) 晶系天然

6、礦物.摩氏硬度10, 密度 3.52 (0.01) g / cm3, 折射率2.417, 色散 0.044.Diamond Grading 鉆石分級(jí)從顏色 (Colour) 、凈度 (Clarity) 、切工 (CUT) 、及質(zhì)量 (carat) 四個(gè)方面對(duì)鉆石進(jìn)行等級(jí)劃分, 簡(jiǎn)稱4c分級(jí).比色石 Dimond master set一套已標(biāo)定顏色級(jí)別的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)鉆型切工鉆石樣品, 依次代表由高至低連續(xù)的顏色級(jí)別.比色燈 Dimond Light色溫在5500k 7200k范圍內(nèi)的日光燈.Diameter直徑鉆石腰部圓形水平面的直徑, 其中最大值稱為最小直徑, 1 / 2 (最大直徑 + 最小直徑)

7、值稱為平均直徑.Dispersion色散進(jìn)入鉆石內(nèi)的光線, 根據(jù)不同切面角度作內(nèi)部反射, 光線的分配反射產(chǎn)生彩虹七色, 稱為色散.Extra Face 額外刻面規(guī)定之外的所有多余刻面.Emerald Cut Diamond 祖母綠形Facets切面鉆石胚經(jīng)打磨后, 光滑的細(xì)小表面構(gòu)成鉆石的外型.光線與這些瓣面的反射作用, 造成鉆石的閃爍光芒.Fancy coloured Diamond 彩鉆鉆石其它顏色如黃色、粉紅色、藍(lán)色、綠色、紅色、黑色, 千變?nèi)f化, 但極罕有, 價(jià)值極高.Fancy cut異形切工除圓形以外的任何形式的鉆石琢型.異形切工包括如狹長(zhǎng)方形、祖母綠形、三角形、梨形、公主形、橢圓

8、形和水滴形等琢型.Feather羽狀紋鉆石內(nèi)部或延伸至內(nèi)部的部分.Finish 修飾度 / 磨光鉆石切割和拋光之后的表面平滑程度.如果打磨手工上乘, 鉆石就擁有優(yōu)質(zhì)磨光.Fire 火彩度指鉆石分解反射出七彩色譜光的強(qiáng)度.與切工比率以及對(duì)稱性密切相關(guān).Flat Top setting 平頂鑲平頂鑲類似吉卜賽鑲, 同樣是戒指臂的頂部較粗, 主石鑲嵌在頂部的中央, 以金屬片固定鉆石腰.Fl級(jí) Flawless經(jīng)驗(yàn)豐富的分級(jí)人員在標(biāo)準(zhǔn)光源下, 用30倍放大鏡觀察, 沒有發(fā)現(xiàn)任何的瑕疵特征而定義.也就是說該鉆石不包含任何大于5微米的且具有足夠亮度的瑕疵特征.Fluorescence 熒光強(qiáng)度 degre

9、e鉆石在長(zhǎng)波紫光照射下發(fā)出的可見光強(qiáng)弱程度.部份鉆石在紫外線下, 會(huì)發(fā)出較白、較黃、或較藍(lán)的光芒, 這特點(diǎn)稱為熒光效應(yīng).一般非專業(yè)人士通常不會(huì)察覺.熒 光效應(yīng)不是衡量鉆石素質(zhì)的指標(biāo), 只是該顆鉆石的一種特性.而且個(gè)人對(duì)此的喜好也有所不同.我國按鉆石在長(zhǎng)波紫外光下發(fā)光強(qiáng)弱劃分為 強(qiáng) 、 中 、 弱 、 無 4個(gè)級(jí)別.國外通常分為negligible, none, Inert, faint, Blue, Strong blue六個(gè)級(jí)別Gia美國珠寶學(xué)院The Gemological Institute of America, 美國珠寶學(xué)院, 國際權(quán)威的鉆石檢測(cè)機(jī)構(gòu).腰 Girdle鉆石中直徑最大的

10、圓周.Girdle 腰部裂痕 Fringes打磨過程中, 鉆石腰上可能的出現(xiàn)幼細(xì)裂痕.較輕微的裂痕經(jīng)重新打磨, 可被完全去除.Proportion 腰厚比 Girdle腰部厚度相對(duì)于平均直徑的百分比, 計(jì)算公式見下腰厚比 = 腰部厚度 / 平均直徑100%Growth 或grain Lines 鉆石紋理這些細(xì)紋或平面屬于內(nèi)部瑕疵, 并須將鉆石以極慢速度旋轉(zhuǎn), 才可察覺得到.它們于某些角度出現(xiàn)又瞬間消失.吉卜賽鑲 Gypsy setting這是男裝鉆戒的普遍鑲嵌方法, 戒指臂的頂部較粗, 主石鑲嵌在圓拱形頂部的中央.The design without metal claws makes the

11、 ring lines more concise and smooth.Hearts, and, arrows, cut, eight arrows, eight hearts cuttingRound drill, from the top to see there are eight arrows, from the bottom to see, there are eight hearts, the standard eight arrows, eight hearts, cutting material loss.Heart-shaped diamond heartsHRD (Belg

12、ian diamond high class parliament):The Belgian diamond high class Council, the international authority of diamond organizations and testing organizations. The highest official regulatory body in the diamond industry in belgium. The 4 diamond exchanges in Antwerp, the Belgian Diamond Exchange Federat

13、ion, the relevant trade organizations and trade unions, their spokesmen were HRD. HRDs mission is to develop and protect the Belgian diamond trade and industry. The HRD is organized by the general assembly, the board of directors, the board of directors, the General Administration, the diamond Burea

14、u, the Gemological Institute, the diamond technology research centre, the certificate division, etc.IGLThe, Independent, Gemological, Laboratories, Inc., the authority of the United States diamond testing institutions.Illusion Setting illusion inlayThis method is more interesting than others, becaus

15、e the metal beside the main stone is carefully designed to make the main stone look bigger and more attractive.Inclusions inclusionsBecause it is naturally formed, each diamond has different flaws inside, and each diamond is different from each other. You can know the quantity, size and type of thes

16、e natural birthmark from the clarity grading rules. Inclusions can be divided into clouds, crystalline, needle point and feather lines and so on. The location of the inclusion also directly affects the clarity and value of the diamond.Indented, Natural, concave, primitiveThe diamond net surface is c

17、oncave, like the natural knot inside the diamond.Internally, flawless, IF classExperienced grading personnel, under standard light sources, are observed with 30 magnification lenses without defining any of the flaws in the diamond.Knot original crystal surface:A natural crystalline surface retained

18、at the waist or near the waist for maximum mass.Laser, Drill, Hole laser markRemove traces of dark inclusions in diamonds with lasers and chemicals. A tubular or funnel mark is called a laser hole. It can be filled with high refractive index glass.LCExperienced grading personnel, under standard ligh

19、t sources, are observed with 10 magnification lenses without defining any of the defects. In other words, the diamond contains no more than 5 microns and has enough brightness of the flaw features. (the highest standard of cleanliness in China). The following conditions are still in the LC class:1.

20、the extra facets are in the pavilion and the crown is invisible2. the original crystal surface is in the waistline, which does not affect the transparency3. diamond inside and outside have very slight characteristics, gently micro polishing can be removedLower, girdle, facet, low backThe triangular

21、facets between the main facets of the waist and the pavilion.Masterstone, of, fluorescence, degree fluorescence intensity contrast samplesA set of calibrated fluorescence intensity level standard round diamond cut diamond samples, by 3, the lower limit of the order on behalf of strong, medium and we

22、ak three levels.Marquise-cut diamond Marquise CutMixed-cut hybrid cuttingThe cutting method also has a ladder section and a bright section. The combined cut allows the diamond to have both a Beryls beauty and a bright cut flame.Mohs, hardness, molar hardnessInternational Hardness meter.Natural surfa

23、ce textureA natural growth mark on the surface of a diamond.Needle whiskers waistA small, needle shaped crack in the diamonds waist deep into the interior.Nickel nickelOften added to K platinum.NGTC (National jade jewelry quality supervision and inspection center)NGTC (National Gemstone Testing Cent

24、re) is authorized by the state authorities in accordance with the law of the national quality inspection agency is a professional jade jewelry, jade jewelry on Chinese authority. The inspection center is entrusted with the inspection service for the society, and undertakes the tasks of supervision a

25、nd inspection of the country, arbitration, inspection of import and export commodities, the formulation and revision of relevant national standards and other tasks. Chief amendment to the national diamond standards.Oval-cut diamond ovatePoor P classExperienced grading personnel use the naked eye to

26、detect defects, which can affect the fire of diamonds.Pavilion Pavilion DepartmentThe upper part of the waist has 24 or 25 facets.Pavilion main facet pavilion main facetQuadrangular facets of pavilion.Pavolion angle Pavilion cornerThe angle between the main part of the pavilion and the horizontal pl

27、ane of the waist.Pavilion proportion Pavilion depth ratioThe percentage of the pavilion depth relative to the mean diameter is calculated as below亭深比 = 亭部深度 / 平均直徑100%pav setting 密鑲小鉆石的鑲嵌技術(shù), 鉆石互相間的鑲嵌很緊密, 故不顯金屬.密鑲的表面看上去全由鉆石鋪平.pewter 白蠟蠟腔模具, 一種珠寶制作工藝.pear - shaped diamond 梨形pinpoint 點(diǎn)狀包體鉆石內(nèi)部極小的天然包裹體.p

28、latinum 鉑金鑲嵌鉆石的理想金屬, pt是其標(biāo)志.point 分重量在1克拉以下的鉆石通常也用 分 作為計(jì)量單位, 1克拉 = 100分.the polish 打磨拋光指切割技師將鉆石胚打磨及造出鉆石切面的工序.鉆石外表打磨的程度, 是衡量鉆石品質(zhì)的重要指標(biāo).poor cut 不良切工切工是指技師切割瓣面的角度, 及完成切割后鉆石各部份的比例.切割太深或太淺都稱為不良切工, 當(dāng)鉆石腰部以下比例太深或太淺, 光線會(huì)由底部或旁邊流走, 失卻光采, 鉆石價(jià)值亦變得較低.princess cut diamond 公主方形改良明亮式切割鉆石drong setting / tiffany setti

29、ng 爪鑲用長(zhǎng)的細(xì)爪夾持寶石的四爪或六爪鑲嵌.這種鑲嵌盡現(xiàn)鉆石之美, 便于觀察鉆石的車工、顏色、凈度, 由紐約著名珠寶商蒂芙尼發(fā)明, 現(xiàn)廣泛采用.the proportion 比率鉆石各個(gè)面的數(shù)值相對(duì)于平均直徑的百分比.radiant cut diamond 雷地恩明亮式切割ring size 手寸戒指指圈的大小稱為手寸, 以號(hào)來表示.東方人的手寸大小在8號(hào) - 24號(hào)之間.rose gold 玫瑰金含有75% 的黃金的黃色合金.round brilliant cut 圓鉆型切工理想式切工, 也稱托爾科夫斯基工.是波蘭數(shù)學(xué)家馬歇爾托爾科夫斯基marcel tolkowsky (18991991

30、) 于1919年首先計(jì)算出理論上讓鉆石反射最大量光線的切割方程式.臺(tái)面闊度應(yīng)為總闊度之53%, 亭面角度應(yīng)為 40及45度.有57或58個(gè)刻面.rhodium 銠一種鉑系金屬.round diamond shape 圓形shallow cut 切割太淺切工是指技師切割瓣面的角度, 及完成切割后鉆石各部份的比例.當(dāng)鉆石腰部以下比例太淺, 光線會(huì)由底部或旁邊流走, 失卻光采.鉆石價(jià)值亦變得較低.shape 形狀指鉆石的型態(tài), 例如圓形、三角形、正方形、欖尖形、梨形、橢圓形或心形.the step cut 階梯切割一級(jí)級(jí)像樓梯級(jí)般的切割面.綠柱石形及長(zhǎng)階梯形切割都是階梯切割的例子.star face

31、t 星刻面冠部主刻面與臺(tái)面之間的三角形刻面.slightly included si級(jí)經(jīng)驗(yàn)豐富的分級(jí)人員用10倍放大鏡能夠很容易的發(fā)現(xiàn)小的瑕疵特征.根據(jù)瑕疵特征的尺寸、位置、數(shù)量決定是si1 (fue visible inclusions) 還是si2 (some visible inclusions).scintillation 閃光當(dāng)鉆石反射光線, 從切面發(fā)出的點(diǎn)點(diǎn)光芒稱為閃光.silver 銀常用于添加在k白金中.單粒鑲 solitaire單粒寶石的鑲嵌.symmetry 對(duì)稱性鉆石切割打磨后獲得的各部分的圍繞中心點(diǎn)的水平對(duì)稱, 即切面排列及相互的角度.與比率一樣同為評(píng)價(jià)切工的重要指標(biāo).

32、如果一顆鉆石的車工及比例均屬優(yōu)良, 對(duì)稱的切割會(huì)令閃光及火采更加強(qiáng)烈.國外證書關(guān)于對(duì)稱性 的評(píng)價(jià)較為詳細(xì), 從高到低依次有 ideals (id), excellent (ex) (或premium), very good (vg), fair (f), poor (p).table facet 臺(tái)面冠部八邊形刻面.table 臺(tái)寬比 proportion臺(tái)面寬度相對(duì)于平均直徑的百分比, 計(jì)算公式見下臺(tái)寬比 = 臺(tái)面寬度 / 平均直徑100%tension setting 壁鑲以兩邊金屬臂的壓力, 將主石緊迫固定.the total depth 全深鉆石臺(tái)面至底尖之間的垂直距離.total d

33、epth proportion 全深比全深相對(duì)于平均直徑的百分比, 計(jì)算公式見下全深比 = 全深 / 平均直徑100%t.W. (Total, Weight)The total number of carats of diamonds set on jewelry.Tapered, baguette, pointed, ladder shapedDiamond with stepped cutting surface; longer sides narrowed gradually.Trillion shape triangleA triangular diamond with 50 cutting faces; usually used as a companion stoneTwinning W