常用外貿(mào)服裝專業(yè)術(shù)語-英文釋義含圖

AAppliqué:Surfacepatternmadebycuttingoutfabricorlacedesignsandattachingthemtoanotherfabricorlacebymeansofembroideryorstitching.Armhole:夾圈，袖籠Sectionofagarmentthroughwhichanarmpassesorintowhichasleeveissewn.ArmholeDrop:DistancefromHighPointShoulderorLowPointShouldermeasuredtoimaginarylineatbaseofarmholethatisata90-degreeanglefromCForCB.ArmholePoint:Thepointonapatternwherearmholeandsideseamintersect.

Armscye:SeedefinitionforArmhole.

BBackstitch:返針，回針SeedefinitionforBacktack.Backtack:Stitchesusedtosecurethethreadsatthebeginningand/orendingofarowofstitching.BaggedLining:Liningthatisstitchedsecurelytoshellathems.Balance:Garmentappearssymmetricalonthebody.Hangingequaldistancesfromthebodyrighttoleft,andfronttoback.

BalancedPlaid/StripePlacement:Referstothesymmetricalappearanceoftheplaidonthebody.Thestripe/plaidmuststartatthesamepointonbothsidesofthegarment.

BananaStand:SeedefinitionforHalfMoonStand.BandNeckline,Circular:Fordefinitionseeset-circular.

BandNeckline,Flat:Fordefinitionseeset-flat

BarrelButton:SeedefinitionforToggleButton.Bartack套結(jié):Aseriesofshortstitchessewn縫closetogetherandusedtoreinforceareasofstrainorstress.Canbezigzag[ziɡz?ɡ]鋸齒形的線條orstraightstitching.

BastingStitch:Temporarilyholdstogethertwolayersoffabric.Bellow:Amethodofaddingfullnesstoanareaofagarment,usuallyapocket.Oftenstitchedaroundedgestoholdshape.Bellying:SeeCocklingBeltloop:Narrowstripoffabricorthreadchainatthewaistlinetokeepabeltinposition.BesomPocket:SeedefinitionforWeltPocket.BiasCut:Cuttingdiagonallyacrossthegrainofthefabricata45degreeangletotheselvedge,resultinginagarmentthatclingsandfollowsbodycurvesclosely.

BindOff(Sweater):SeedefinitionforCastOff.Binding:Anarrowstripoffabricusedtocoverseamsorrawedgestogiveacleanfinishededgeandisvisibleonbothsidesofthefabric.Canbesingle-turned,double-turnedorcombination.

BlanketStitch(502)BlendedYarns:Yarnscomposedoftwoormoredifferentfibersmixedtogetherandthenspuntoformoneyarn.Blindstitch:ForDefinitionseeHemand103

Blistering:SeedefinitionforBubbling.Block:SeedefinitionforSloper.Blocking:Theshapingofasweaterintoitsfinishedform.Steamandpressureareappliedtomaketheblockedshapehold.BodyFabric:Outerlayeroffabricinagarment.BondStrength:Thenumericalmeasurementofforcerequiredtoseparatetheinterliningfromthepiecegoods.ThemeasurementofgramforceisrecordedinNewton(N=102gf)orOunce(oz=28.35gf).Bonding:Processofjoining2fabricsintoonebybackingwithadhesiveorfoam.Boning:Firmflexiblestrip,likenylon,concealedincasingtoholdshapeorpreventstretching.BootcutSilhouette:BoundButtonhole:Fordefinitionseebuttonhole

BoundNeckline,Circular:Fordefinitionseeset-circular.

BoundNeckline,Flat:Fordefinitionseeset-flat

BoundSeam:Methodoffinishingaseambybindingseamallowance.

Bow,Bowing:Afabricflawinwhichthecrosswiseyarnsarcacrossthewidthofthefabric.

BoxPleat:Pleatformedbyfoldingmaterialalternatelyinoppositedirections.

BoxPleatInvertedBoxPleatBraidedElastic:SeedefinitionforElasticBraidedBubbling:Theseparationatdifferentpointsbetweentheinterliningandthepiecegoods.Buckle:Afasteningdevice,inavarietyofsizesandshapes,consistingofanopenrimhavingasingleorcenterbar,withorwithoutaprong.

BustDart:

SeedefinitionforDart.BustedSeam:SeedefinitionforPressedOpenSeam.Button:Decorativeorfunctionalcomponentusedtoholdtwosidesofagarmenttogether.Canbemadeoutofmanymaterialsandcaneitherhaveholespunchedinthecenterforstitchingorashankontheback.Buttonsaremadetoslipthroughabuttonholeorfabricloop.ButtonandLoopCross-StitchAttached:SeedefinitionforButton.

ButtonParallelStitchAttached:SeedefinitionforButton.

Buttonhole:Openingforabuttontopassthroughandsecureagarmentopening.Canbebound,stitched/worked,ormadefromaloopofthread,cordorbiastubing.ButtonSleevePlacket:SeedefinitionforPlacket.

ButtonStabilizer:Aplainflatbuttonusuallymadeofclearplasticplacedinsideagarmentbehindthetopoutsidebutton.Canbeusedanywheretherearebuttonsforclosure.CCapSnap:SeedefinitionforSnap.

CargoPocket:Astylizedpatchpocket,oftenwithbellows,withflapclosureatthetop.Casing:Foldoffabricstitcheddowntoformanopeningthroughwhichelasticoracordisdrawn.CastOff(Sweater):Methodsofremovingopenstitchesfromtheneedlesmustbefinishedwithabindoff(likeribnecktrim)topreventunravelingofthefinishededge.Canalsobedecorativestitcheswithinapanel.CastOn(Sweater):SeedefinitionofSweaterStart.CenteredOverSeamStitch:Topstitchoneachsideoftheseam,equaldistancefromtheseam.Canbeproducedbytwosingleneedlesor1doubleneedle.ChainTack:SeedefinitionforSwingTack.

ChiselPocket:SeedefinitionforRulerPocket.CircularFinish:SeedefinitionforSetCircularCircularKnit:SeedefinitionforTubularKnit.CleanFinish:Indicatesthatrawedgesoffabricarefinishedinawaythatstopsfabricfromfrayingandhidesrawedges.Clicking:SeedefinitionforDieCutting.Closure:Componentsthatworktogethertohold2sidesofagarmenttogether.Cockling:CocklingandBellyingmeanthesamething.Ifelastichasawavyappearancealongitslength,thisiscalledcocklingorbellying.Theprimarycauseiswhentheindividualendsofspandex(rubber)relaxorcontractmorethanthemajorityinthesamelengthoftheelasticcausingwavinessalongthetopedge.CoinPocket:Smalldecorativepocketusuallyfoundonbottomgarments,usuallylocatedinsidesidepocket.Canbeapatchpocketoron-seampocketconstruction.

Collar:

NoBandCollarWithBandCollarCollarStay:Narrowstripofplasticormetalinsertedinpointofcollarfromtheundersideorissewntointerliningbetweenlayersofcollarfabricaddedtogarmenttoensureacrispunwrinkledlook.

Collarband:SeedefinitionforCollarstandCollarstand:Separateshapedpieceoffabricthatisthefulllengthofgarmentnecklineandisinsertedbetweengarmentnecklineandcollar.Usedtohelpshapeandfitcollartobodyandalsocanbeusedtocloseneckline.

ColorFast:Atermusedtodeterminewhetheracolor‘bleeds’duringlaundering.Thisisnormallymeasuredbyagradingsystem1–5.ConcealedZipper:Zipperissetalongfoldededgesofseamlinewithzipperteethnotvisible.Somespecificconstructionmethodsarecenterlappedorkissing,sidelapped,andinvisible.Construction:Processesinordertoconstructagarment,consistsofstitchingand/orfusinggarmentpiecestogether.ContinuousSleevePlacket:SeedefinitionforPlacket.

ContouredWaistband:SeedefinitionforWaistband.

Cording:SeedefinitionforPiping.

Cordlock:Alockingdevicethatistypicallyspringactivatedandmayhave1or2holes.Usedtoadjustdrawcords,etc.

CoreThread:Threadformedbyspinningacotton,rayon,orpolyesterfiberaroundacontinuousfilamentbundleoffibersgivingthethreadtheadvantagesofaspunandFilamentconstruction.Course:Acrosswiseorhorizontalrowofloopsinknittedfabric.

CoveredButton:SeedefinitionforButton.

Crack-stitched:SeedefinitionforStitch-in-the-Ditch.CrescentStand:SeedefinitionforHalfMoonStand.Crocking:Thetransferofdyestufffromonefabrictoanotherbyfriction.Thisproblemisusuallyworsewithdarkershades.Redsareoftenaprobleminthisrespect.Thisisadyeingproblemandcanbedealtwithinthedyehouse.CrossGrainCut:Thecuttingofapatternpieceperpendiculartotheselvedgeofthefabric

Crotch:

CrotchCurve:Thebottomofarisecurve.

CrotchDepth:Thestraightdistancefromcrotchtotopofwaistbandinpants,shorts,etc.

CrotchPoint:Thepointonthepatternwherethefrontorbackriseintersectswiththeinseam.CurtainWaistband:Amethodoffinishingthewaistofagarmentthatisaseparatesewnonfacingthathangsbelowlowerseamofwaistbandmadeoffabricotherthanshellthatisinterfaced/interlinedorturned.CutandSew(Sweater):Sweaterpanelsareknittothebodylengthofthelargestsize,theshapeoftheneckline,shouldersandarmholesarecutout,smallersizesarecutdown.

CutOnPlacket:SeedefinitionforPlacket.

Cutting:Formationofgarmentpiecesfromlayers(plies)offabricbymeansofadie,laserorknife.Typicallydoneonalongtable.DDart:Asewnwedgeordiamondshapedtuck/seamusedtomakeagarmentconformtothecurvesofthebody.Delamination:Aseparationinthebondbetweenthefusibleinterliningandthepiecegoods.Thiscanbetotalseparation(totaldelamination)orpartialseparation(localizeddelaminiation).Denier:Weightmeasurementofyarns.Lownumbersrepresentthefinersizesandthehighernumbersrepresentthecoarser/heaviersizes.

AlsoseedefinitionforElasticDenierDieCutting:Sharpmetaloutlinesintheshapeofpatternpiecesusedtocutpliesoffabricinconjunctionwitheitheraclickpressordiecuttingpress.Typicallyusedforsmallerpatternpieces.DifferentialShrinkage:Occurswhenthepiecegoodsandtheinterliningarenotmovinginsyncandwillcausedistortioninthesurfaceappearanceofthegarmentpart.DoghouseStitch:SeedefinitionforTriangleReinforceStitch.DoubleNeedleCenteredOverSeam:SeedefinitionforCenteredOverSeamStitch.DoubleTurnHem:SeedefinitionforHem.

DoubleYoke/StylizedYoke:SeedefinitionforYoke.

Drape:SeedefinitionforHang.Drawcord:SeedefinitionforDrawstring.Drawstring:Anarrowstring,ribbon,cord,ortubeoffabricinsertedintoacasingandpulleduportiedtocreateshapeand/orholdthegarmenttothebody.

DressForm:SeedefinitionforMannequin.D-Ring:“D”shapedpieceofhardwareoftenusedtocreateanadjustableclosureheldtogetherbyaloopedandstitchedendofabelt.

EEase:Themethodofsewingtogether2componentsofvaryingseamlengthsevenlydistributingfullnesssoasnottocausegathersorpuckers.SeedefinitionsforTight,ModerateandGenerous.EaseOverBody:Theamountofroomabovebodymeasurementsneededinagarmenttoallowadequatemovementwhenworn.EighthTopPocket:SeedefinitionforSlantPocket.

ElasticBraided:Anarrowelasticband,oftenusedastrimmingsandbindings.Formedbyplatingseveralstrandsofyardsandbareelastomers.Braidedelasticusuallybecomesnarrowedwhenelongated.Madeonacircularbraidingmachine.ElasticDenier:Thesizeorthicknessoftheyarn.Alsothicknessofspandex(Thelowerthenumbertheweakerthespandex)ElasticElastomers:NaturalRubberThreadElasticElongation:Stretch–measure5”relaxedandpulltomaximum;measurementresultgivenina%.ElasticEndsofRubber:Thenumberofstrandsofrubberusedtomanufactureaparticularsizeorqualityofelastic.ElasticGauge:Thicknessofrubber(Thelowerthenumberthestrongertherubber)ElasticKnitted:Fabricconstructionforinterlockingseriesoflooperofoneormoreyarns.Materialsnormallyusedaretexturedpolyesteryarnsortexturednylonandbarespandexorextrudedrubber.Madeonaflatbedcrochetmachine.ElasticModulus:Power(resistancetostretch),strengthortensionoftheelastic.Theforcerequiredtopulltheelastictoaspecificstretch/length,determinestheamountofpressuretheelasticisputtingonthewearer’sbody.ElasticNonRoll:Elasticthathasenoughwidthwisestabilitysoitdoesnotbend,rollorcrushacrossitswidthwhenworn.Madewithmonofilamentthread.ElasticRecovery:Abilityofelastictoretainitsoriginallengthimmediatelyafterstretchingandreleasing.Afterstretchingtheelastictoitsmaximumcapability.Theelasticmustreturnto90%to92%ofitsoriginallength.ElasticWaistband:SeedefinitionforWaistband

ElasticWoven:Primarilymadeupofwarpyarns,fillyarnsandcoveredspandexorcoveredextrudedrubber.Generallythickeranddenserduetothebulkinessofthecoveredelastomersandstitchformations.Madeonashuttleloom.Elastomeric:Anendofspandexwhichhasbeencoveredortwistedwithyarn.Embroidery:Fancyneedleworkortrimmingusingcoloredyarn,floss,cotton,silkormetallicthreads.EnclosedSeam:SeedefinitionforFrenchSeams.EndsofRubber:Thenumberofstrandsofrubberusedtomanufactureaparticularsizeorqualityofelastic.Execution:SeedefinitionforConstruction.ExposedSeam:Seamsinwhichtheseamallowancesarevisibleontheoutsideofthegarment.

ExposedZipper:Zipperissetalongfoldededgesofseamlinewithzipperteethvisible.

ExpressionofFit:Designer’svisionofhowthegarmentshouldfitonthehumanform.

Thekeyelementsoffitthatarerelatedtothestylingofthegarmentinclude,butarenotlimitedto,wherethegarmentsitsonthewaistofthebodyandhowtightfittingagarmentis.Itispossibleforagarmenttoachieveanexcellentfit,butstillnothaveachievedthedesigner’svisionforfit.

ExtendedTabWaistband:SeedefinitionforWaistband.

Eyelet:Smallcircularplasticormetaltubesecuredtofabrictoformanopening.Canalsobeformedbyaroundembroideredopening.Canbedecorativeorusedwithcord.

FFabric:Clothmadeoftextileyarnsorfibersbyweaving,knitting,lacemaking,braiding,netting,orfelting.Canalsobemadebybondingornon-wovenmethods.

FabricHandFeel:SeedefinitionforHand.Face:Surfaceoffabricdesignatedintheweaving/knittingprocesstobeusedastheoutsideofafinishedgarment.Facing:Pieceoffabricusedtofinisharawedge.Facingsareturnedtotheinsideofagarmentenclosingseams.

Faggoting:Open-workembroiderydonebydrawingouthorizontalthreadsoffabric,thentyingtheverticalthreadsingroupstoproduceopenspaces,OR,decorativestitchingthatholdstogethertwocloselyspacedfoldededgesoffabricwithornamentalstitches.

FashioningMarks(Sweater):Raised“twists”thatresultsfromtransferringloopstoadjacentneedlestodecreasethewidthoftheknittedpanel,usuallyoccursinaseriesatnecklineandarmhole.

FelledSeam:Processthatconcealsseamallowancebetweenpliesastheyarefoldedtogetherandtopstitchedthroughalllayers.

FemaleClosure:Fiber:Basicfilamentorstrandfromwhichyarnsaremade.Fibersareeithershortwithnaturalmaterialsorman-madematerialswhicharemadeinlongcontinuousfilaments.Filament:Afiberofindefiniteorextremelengthasfoundinsilkorsyntheticfibers.Fill:Crosswiseorhorizontalyarnofawovenfabricthatrunsatrightanglestothewarpyarnsorselvage.

Findings:Allthesmalleritemsandtrimmingsthatcompleteagarment.Maybedecorativematerialthatadornsthegarment.FineGauge(Sweater):Asmallknittedstitchusually12to24gauge.Finishing:Allthefinalstagesofpreparingagarmentforpointofsale.Includes,butnotlimitedto,washing,pressing,threadclipping,inspection,ticketing,etc.FishtailButtonhole:ForDefinitionseebuttonhole.

Fit:Howwellagarmentconformstothe3-dimensionalhumanbody.FitModel:Individualwhorepresentsthefiguretypeoftheintendedguestusedtoevaluatethefitofgarments.FittingEase:SeedefinitionforEaseOverBody.FlapPocket:FlareLegSilhouette:

FlatFelledSeam:SeedefinitionforFelledSeam.FlatFinish:SeedefinitionforSetFlat.FlatKnit:Fabricknittedflatandhasselvages.FlatKnitCollar:FloatingTack:SeedefinitionforSwingTack.Fraying:Frayingistheunravelingofyarnineitherthefillorwarpdirection.FreeHangingLining:Liningnotattachedatgarmenthem.FrenchDart:SeedefinitionforDart.

FrenchFlyFacing:Aseparatesewnonfabrictaborextensionusedtocoverzipperteeth.Itextendsfrombottomofzippertowaistbandandbuttonstoinsideofpantsnearwaist.

FrenchSeams:Processwhererawedgesofaseamareenclosedbetweengarmentpliesastheyareturnedoverandstitched,formingacleanfinish.

FrenchTack:SeedefinitionforSwingTack.Frog:Ornamentalbraidedtwopiecegarmentclosureformingbuttonandloop

FullFashioned/KnittoShape(Sweater):Sweaterpanelisknittoshapebyincreasinganddecreasingthenumberofneedlesusedduringtheknittingaction.Nocuttingisrequiredtoobtainthedesiredpanelshape.

FullNeedleRib(Sweater):Doublebedconstructcommonlyusedatstartorplacket;lookslike1X1rib,butismorecompact.Canbeeitherlink/loopattached(seelinking/LoopingDefinition)orcontinuousknitattach.

FullPlacket:SeedefinitionforPlacket.

Fusible:Fabriccontainingheatsensitiveadhesiveforapplicationusingheatandpressure.Commonlyseenoninterfacingordecorativetrims.GGathering:SeedefinitionforShirring.GaugeElastic:SeedefinitionforElasti