中國傳統(tǒng)服飾 英文

中國傳統(tǒng)服飾英文第1頁/共72頁ChineseCostumesTheChinesecostume,whichhasover5,000years’history,isjustlikealongriver.Andtodaywe’llpresenttheminthreeparts,HanDynasty,TangDynastyandQingDynasty.Part1HanFuPart2CostumeinTangDynastyPart3Cheongsam第2頁/共72頁HanFu第3頁/共72頁HanfuisalsoknownasHanzhuangorHuafu，isthetraditionaldressoftheHanChinesepeople.ThetermHanfuderivesfromtheBookofHan,whichsays,"thenmanycametotheCourttopayhomageandweredelightedattheclothingstyleoftheHan."（后數來朝賀，樂漢衣服制度）第4頁/共72頁StandardstylehistorySpecificstyleGallerybody第5頁/共72頁HistoryHanfuhasahistoryofmorethanthreemillennia,andissaidtohavebeenwornbythelegendaryYellowEmperor.Fromthebeginningofitshistory,Hanfu(especiallyinelitecircles)wasinseparablefromsilk,supposedlydiscoveredbytheYellowEmperor’sconsort,Leizu.第6頁/共72頁

TheShangDynastydevelopedtherudimentsofHanfu;itconsistedofayi,andchang,wornwithabixi,.Vividprimarycolorsandgreenwereused,duetothedegreeoftechnologyatthetime.第7頁/共72頁theWesternZhouDynasty，theHanfubecamelooser,withtheintroductionofwidesleevesandjadedecorationshungfromthesashwhichservedtokeeptheyiclosed.Theyiwasessentiallywrappedover,inastyleknownasjiaolingyouren,orwrappingtherightsideoverbeforetheleft第8頁/共72頁IntheEasternZhouDynasty，the“deeprobe”(shenyi深衣)appearedacombinationoftunic（束腰外衣）andskirt.Theupperandlowerhalveswerecutseparatelybutsewnasasingleunit.Anadditionalchangewastheshapingoftheleftsideofthecostumeintoacorner,fastenedonthechest.第9頁/共72頁women第10頁/共72頁men第11頁/共72頁第12頁/共72頁SinceSongandYuan,officialrecordusedHanfutoindicategarmentsHanswearDuringLiaodynasty,theemperorofLiaoandHanofficialswearHanfu,andEmpressandKhitan（契丹）officialsweartheirnationalclothing.DuringYuandynasty,wheneditingHistoryofLiao,theofficialsespeciallymadeanentryforHanfu第13頁/共72頁Theterm"Hanfu"todescribetheclothingsystemofHans,wasnotoftenusedwithinHans,butwasmoreoftenusedinotherethnicgroupsandnations,todistinguishtheHansclothingsystemandtheirownclothingsystem第14頁/共72頁StandardstyleHatandheaddressInformaldressSemi-formalFormaldressCourtdress第15頁/共72頁Hatandheadwear--garmentThestyleofHanChineseclothingcanbesummarizedascontaininggarmentelementsthatarearrangedindistinctiveandsometimesspecificways.ThismaybedifferentfromthetraditionalgarmentofotherethnicgroupsinChina,mostnotablytheManchu-influencedChineseclothes,theqipao,whichispopularlyassumedtobethesolelyrecognizablestyleof"traditional"Chinesegarb.Acomparisonofthetwostylescanbeseenasthefollowingprovides第16頁/共72頁Yi(衣):Anyopencross-collargarment,andwornbybothsexesPao(袍):Anyclosedfull-bodygarment,wornonlybymeninHanfuRu(襦):Opencross-collarshirtShan(衫):Opencross-collarshirtorjacketthatiswornovertheyiQun(裙)orchang(裳):SkirtforwomenandmenKu(褲):Trousersorpants第17頁/共72頁Ontopofthegarments,hats(formen)orhairpieces(forwomen)maybeworn.Onecanoftentelltheprofessionorsocialrankofsomeonebywhattheywearontheirheads.Thetypicaltypesofmaleheadweararecalledjin(巾)forsoftcaps,mao(帽)forastiffhatsandguan(冠)forformalheaddress.Officialsandacademicshaveaseparatesetofhatsforthem,typicallytheputou(幞頭),thewushamao(烏紗帽),thesi-fangpingdingjin(四方平定巾;orsimply,fangjin:方巾)andtheZhuangzijin(莊子巾).Atypicalhairpieceforwomenisaji(笄)buttherearemoreelaboratehairpieces.第18頁/共72頁第19頁/共72頁第20頁/共72頁第21頁/共72頁InformaldressTypesincludetops(yi)andbottoms(dividedfurtherintopantsandskirtsforbothgenders,withterminologieschangorqun),andone-piecerobesthatwraparoundthebodyonceorseveraltimes(shenyi).第22頁/共72頁

(中衣)orzhongdan(中單):innergarments,mostlywhitecottonorsilk(衫裙):ashortcoatwithalongskirtRuqun(襦裙):atopgarmentwithaseparatelowergarmentorskirt(褲褶):ashortcoatwithtrousersZhiduo/zhishen(直裰/直身):aMingDynastystylerobe,similartoazhijushenyibutwithventsatthesideand'stitchedsleeves'(i.e.thesleevecuffisclosedsaveasmallopeningforthehandtogothrough)Daopao/Fusha(道袍/彿裟):Taoist/Buddhistpriests'fulldressceremonialrobes第23頁/共72頁AtypicalsetofHanfucanconsistoftwoorthreelayersThefirstlayerofclothingismostlythezhongyi(中衣)whichistypicallytheinnergarmentmuchlikeaWesternT-shirtandpants.Thenextlayeristhemainlayerofclothingwhichismostlyclosedatthefront.Therecanbeanoptionalthirdlayerwhichisoftenanovercoatcalledazhaoshanwhichisopenatthefront.第24頁/共72頁Semi-formaldress

ApieceofHanfucanbe"madesemi-formal"bytheadditionofthefollowingappropriateitems:chang(裳):apleatedskirtbixi(蔽膝):longfrontclothpanelattached fromthewaistbeltzhaoshan(罩衫):longopenfrontedcoatguan(冠)oranyformalhats第25頁/共72頁FormaldressXuanduan(玄端):averyformaldarkrobe;equivalenttotheWesternwhitetieShenyi(深衣):alongfullbodygarment

(曲裾):diagonalbodywrapping (直裾):straightlapelsYuanlingshan(圓領衫),lanshan(襴衫)orpanlingpao(盤領袍):closed,round-collaredrobe;mostlyusedforofficialoracademicaldress第26頁/共72頁CourtdressCourtdressisthedresswornatveryformaloccasionsandceremoniesthatareinthepresenceofamonarch(suchasanenthronementceremony).Theentireensembleofclothingcanconsistofmanycomplexlayersandlookveryelaborate.Courtdressissimilartothexuanduanincomponentsbuthaveadditionaladornmentsandelaborateheadwear.Theyareoftenbrightlycoloredwithvermillionandblue.Therearevariousversionsofcourtdressthatarewornforcertainoccasions.第27頁/共72頁第28頁/共72頁SpecificStyleHistorically,HanClothinghasinfluencedmanyofitsneighbouringculturalcostumes,suchasJapanese

kimono,yukata,Korean

HanbokandtheVietnamese

áot?than.ElementsofHanfuhavealsobeeninfluencedbyneighbouringculturalcostumes,especiallybythenomadicpeoplestothenorth,andCentralAsianculturestothewestbywayoftheSilkRoad.第29頁/共72頁gallery第30頁/共72頁第31頁/共72頁notes第32頁/共72頁第33頁/共72頁Costume

inTangDynasty

第34頁/共72頁1、ThebriefintroductionofcostumeinTangdynasty2、ThefeaturesofcostumeinTangdynasty3、HowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing?第35頁/共72頁BriefIntroductionTheclothingmaterialswereexquisite（精美的）Thestructurewasnatural,gracefulandelegantAdornmentsweresplendidComplimentedbyelaboratehairstyle,ornamentsandfacemakeup第36頁/共72頁Thegeneralfeaturesofwomen’scostumeinTangdynasty：1)topless（上空裝，袒胸裝）2）exposedarm3）oblique(斜的）collar4）largesleeves5）longskirtdressAllofthesemakeitdeservethemosttypicalopenclothingstyle.Theclothingmaterialsareexquisite,thestructureisnatural,gracefulandelegant,andadornmentsaresplendid.第37頁/共72頁Thisisthefamouspicture《簪花侍女圖》showingaladystrollinginthecourtTheladywaswearingaleno-madeuppergarment,high-waistskirtandwithoutunderdress.Thiswascalled“topless”（上空裝，袒胸裝）Mindedness:theopen-mindedstate“綺羅纖縷見肌膚”“蟬翼羅衣白玉人

”第38頁/共72頁第39頁/共72頁

Theopenclothingstyleanditssoftnessandlightnessmakethewomen’scostumeinTangdynastysouniqueanddistinctive.

第40頁/共72頁

TheTangwomendressedinsetsofgarments,andeachsetauniqueimageinitself.

第41頁/共72頁Ingeneral,theTangwomen'sdresses

canbe

classifiedintothreecategories:

（1）ThetraditionalruqunordoublelayeredorpaddedshortjacketthatistypicalofcentralChina第42頁/共72頁Pattern—襦裙(Ruqun)Ruqun（襦裙）iswornbywomen.

Whenitscollarlikestheletter“y”,wecancalledit“交領襦裙”.Ifitscollarlikesthenumber“11”,wecancalledit“對襟襦裙”.

Whentheyareclassifiedbyitsheightoftheskirt，wecancalledthem“齊腰襦裙”——Whichwaistbandisonthewaist.Or“齊胸襦裙”——Whichwaistbandisabovethechest.第43頁/共72頁（2）thehufu,oraliendressthatcamefromtheSilkRoad;（3）Cross-Dressing(namely,girlsdressedasboys)，thefullsetofmalegarmentsthatbrokethetraditionoftheConfucianformalities拘謹,禮節(jié).第44頁/共72頁

AfterthereignofTangEmperorGaozong,purplewasusedasthegarmentcolorforofficialsabovethethirdgrade;lightred,officialsabovethefifthgrade;darkgreen.第45頁/共72頁officialsabovethesixthgrade;lightgreen,officialsabovetheseventhgrade;darkcyan,officialsabovetheeighthgrade;lightcyan,officialsabovetheninthgrade;andyellow,ordinarypeopleandthosewhodidnotliveinthepalace.

第46頁/共72頁HowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing?第47頁/共72頁First,inChinesehistory,theTangDynasty(AD618-907)wasaperiodofunityandprosperitywhenthepolityandeconomywerehighlydeveloped.MaterialisticabundanceandarelativelyrelaxedsocialatmospheregavetheTangDynastyanunprecedentedopportunitytodevelopculturally,reachingitsheightinpoetry,painting,musicanddance.第48頁/共72頁Second,Basedontheprogressmadeinsilkreelinganddyeingtechniques,thevariety,qualityandquantityoftextilematerialsreachedanunprecedentedheight.第49頁/共72頁

Thestructureisnatural,gracefulandelegant,andadornmentsaresplendid.第50頁/共72頁

Asanimportantculturalelement,woman’scostumeinvariousformsintheTangDynastywellillustratestheopen-mindednessandaffluenceduringthatperiod.第51頁/共72頁Third,TheTanggovernmentwastolerant,andoftenappreciativeofreligions,artandculturefromtheoutsideworld.ThoughtheformsofgarmentswerestillthecontinuationoftheHanDynasty(206BC-220AD)andtheSuiDynasty(581-618),theyhavedistinctivestylesbyitselfbeinginfluencedbyculturesandartsoftheWesternRegions.第52頁/共72頁

Willyouacceptyourgirlfriends/yourselvesdressingveryopen?第53頁/共72頁Cheongsam第54頁/共72頁OriginDevelopment第55頁/共72頁Origin——nameThe

namecheongsammeaningsimplylongdressenteredtheEnglishvocabularyfromthedialectofChina'sGuangdongProvince.

InotherpartsofthecountryincludingBeijing,however,itisknownas"qipao",whichhasahistorybehindit.第56頁/共72頁●QingDynasty(1644),Manchu,BannerPeople(qiren).●1645Shunzhi,“TifaYifu”Policy(剃發(fā)易服)thenext300years,becameadoptedbytheChinese.●Survivedthepoliticalturmoilofthe1911XinhaiRevolutiontoppledtheQingDynasty.Thehistoryof

cheongsam第57頁/共72頁

Thedetailsofcheongsam●shirtisnotexposed(衫不露外)●theright-sidelapel[l?'pel]

ofjunction[?d???k??n]

decoratedwithbuttons(偏襟右衽以盤紐為飾)●clothingplusclothing(衣外加衣)●increasewaistcoat['we?sk??t]

orjacket(增加坎肩或馬褂)第58頁/共72頁●clothesdonotgetthewaistdown(衣服上下不取腰身)●Rectangularoutline(外輪廓呈長方形)●Horseshoe-shapedsleevecoverhand(馬蹄袖蓋手)●setrollingcraftdecoration(鑲滾工藝裝飾)●flowerpotshoes(花盆鞋)第59頁/共72頁

Frog盤扣Openings衩第60頁/共72頁Embroidery[?m'br??d?r?]

刺繡Frontofagarment襟第61頁/共72頁Development

From1914to1949第62頁/共72頁Development

From1914to1949第63頁/共72頁1930~1940，Peakperiod

western-stylecut